Saturday was a pleasant surprise. Gave Merchant his early morning wake up call at 8am and suggested a dip at Rest Bay. The winds were onshore but light and there was a medium swell running.
Nath had had a few beers the night before and was already talking about it being a tricky paddle out so the warning signs were there! ;)
We paddled out and I lost Nath about halfway out last seen going the wrong way over towards the headland ;) I carried on and was pleased to see a few clean faces jacking up and landing in front me.
I noticed a few guys sat further out - Adrian etc so went a bit further and took my spot out back. The waves although crumbly in a light wsw breeze had plenty of power and were 3-4ft. Nath ended up at Coney for some reason but caught a few apparently.
As the tide pushed, the waves improved and within an hour the wind had swung dropped to a very light cross offshore - result!
I bumped into the Greek lads out back and the crowd filled slightly but the vibe was good with plenty of good rights coming through and some nice high speed bowling sections to carve off.
a set appeared and I could see two lads to my left with priority but looking too deep to ever catch me up so off I went. I checked to my left just in case they made it and saw the nearest surfer fall on bottom turn so I had a clear run.
I had a nice long right, kicked out and paddled back only to find the other surfer staring at me?
He continued to paddle, stop, turn around and stare at me as he made his way back to the line up. I found the whole thing a bit bizarre? What was I meant to do, not go just because he'd attempted a wave and fallen off?! To give you an idea of how far away I was, I kicked out about 40-50 feet away from him!
I paddled back to my slot determined not to let it ruin a good surf and took off on a nice wave only to find the same guy doing his best to get in the way as he paddled back out - making no effort to move so I took the drop, steering away from him and continued on my way.
As I paddled out the same guy took off and the deliberately rode straight for me narrowly missing me as I paddled up and out of the way and over the wave.
I took a deep breath and let it go as I know the other guy in question is a local surfer and I didn't really want to start a 'tit for tat' campaign which would ultimately only end in confrontation or someone getting injured. Be the better man etc...
That was it really, I caught a few more and called it a day. Thoroughly surprising session only slightly soured by the actions of another surfer.
A shame as we don't this kind of behaviour at Rest Bay - save it for Hawaii!
Sunday delivered more waves but smaller and onshore with a stronger w wind. I opted for a quick surf at sker and met up with harv & co so some fun 2-3ft mush burgers. The waves did improve and the sun came out so not a bad hour or so paddling for everything that came my way.
Monday 22 August 2011
Tuesday 16 August 2011
It just dawned on me
I've been away visiting the outlaws in Germany recently, typically I left the day before a new low pressure pushed in from the Atlantic, but from all accounts, I've missed nothing other than some smallish blown out onshore days.
11 days away from the ocean were certainly taking their toll though and I was frothing like David Frothelhoff by the time we got back late on Sunday night!
Despite Fin having a restless night, I'd set my alarm for 5 am determined to try out my new wetty which has been lying around the house (bone dry) now for some time.
A quick check of the wave buoy date on the i-phone (under the duvet) revealed a small swell but half decent wave period - decent enough for a desperate man anyway at 6 or 7 seconds. The winds were very light NW and a 1.4m swell was running so there should be something, surely?!
I loaded up the van and was at the beach a few minutes later, just in time to witness a spectacularly pink sunrise and told myself it was worth being tired just to see that.
I sat and watched the misformed waves peaking and tumbling about at mid tide Rest Bay and at one point almost bailed. Yes there was surf but the big tides weren't helping with the banks and I just couldn't see anything I'd get more than a drop out of.
The waves were clean on the face though and some even threw the lip out to form little barrels but it was tricky to see 'that wave' which is the one wave breaking that always inspires you, should you ever be in any doubt about paddling out.
"If in doubt paddle out"
I had a quick word with myself and got suited up. As I walked down into the shallows I realised how warm the sea felt and figured a paddle as good an option as any so with no other soul in sight I got my 40 yr old ass out the back, wondering if the beach was closed as there would normally be at least 10 surfers in by now?!
As I paddled out I was rewarded by a few powerful lumps on the head, only 2-3ft but that was enough to make me smile knowing that it could only improve over the next hour or so and it did.
One other guy - Ollie paddled out later and we shared some fun waves. No lengthy rides but one or two which held up long enough to throw in some turns and the odd close out lip bash.
It was just what I needed though and sometimes just one turn can be all the salt water therapy a man needs to start the day in the right way. You can keep your Special K!
I was back in time for a family breakfast, ticking all the right boxes and the new wetsuit was great, really warm, flexible and comfortable and should see me well into late November/December.
It looks like we're in for a few days of swell this week as a couple of weakish fronts move in for Thursday and then Saturday. The winds going offshore on Weds and Thursday so we might just get some fun, clean surf in this week...
11 days away from the ocean were certainly taking their toll though and I was frothing like David Frothelhoff by the time we got back late on Sunday night!
Despite Fin having a restless night, I'd set my alarm for 5 am determined to try out my new wetty which has been lying around the house (bone dry) now for some time.
A quick check of the wave buoy date on the i-phone (under the duvet) revealed a small swell but half decent wave period - decent enough for a desperate man anyway at 6 or 7 seconds. The winds were very light NW and a 1.4m swell was running so there should be something, surely?!
I loaded up the van and was at the beach a few minutes later, just in time to witness a spectacularly pink sunrise and told myself it was worth being tired just to see that.
I sat and watched the misformed waves peaking and tumbling about at mid tide Rest Bay and at one point almost bailed. Yes there was surf but the big tides weren't helping with the banks and I just couldn't see anything I'd get more than a drop out of.
The waves were clean on the face though and some even threw the lip out to form little barrels but it was tricky to see 'that wave' which is the one wave breaking that always inspires you, should you ever be in any doubt about paddling out.
"If in doubt paddle out"
I had a quick word with myself and got suited up. As I walked down into the shallows I realised how warm the sea felt and figured a paddle as good an option as any so with no other soul in sight I got my 40 yr old ass out the back, wondering if the beach was closed as there would normally be at least 10 surfers in by now?!
As I paddled out I was rewarded by a few powerful lumps on the head, only 2-3ft but that was enough to make me smile knowing that it could only improve over the next hour or so and it did.
One other guy - Ollie paddled out later and we shared some fun waves. No lengthy rides but one or two which held up long enough to throw in some turns and the odd close out lip bash.
It was just what I needed though and sometimes just one turn can be all the salt water therapy a man needs to start the day in the right way. You can keep your Special K!
I was back in time for a family breakfast, ticking all the right boxes and the new wetsuit was great, really warm, flexible and comfortable and should see me well into late November/December.
It looks like we're in for a few days of swell this week as a couple of weakish fronts move in for Thursday and then Saturday. The winds going offshore on Weds and Thursday so we might just get some fun, clean surf in this week...
Tuesday 2 August 2011
Ankle slappers
The fact that I've not blogged since June 29 speaks volumes in gull's world...It's been dire.
I've mustered two really poor surfs at the end of July, one in choppy onshore 1-2ft, the other in windless seas but on a large tide and small swell so I spent an hour dodging rocks and just about managing to stand up on the weak pulses.
Despite the dire waves, I actually surfed quite well, popping up quickly and finding the occasional bit of face but I know I'll struggle from surf fitness once we get proper waves again.
I've recently turned 40... and acquired a new wetty which I'm keen to try out but am determined to christen it in waves which are taller than my knees.
You can tell it's been flat as I'm now climbing the walls and getting very pissed off at missing the 1-2ft weak surf that keeps on mystically appearing around mid tide.
I was positively frothing this morning as I ran out of time for a pre work dip and may go later but it doesn't look good currently so may have to drown my sorrows at the surf club meeting tonight.
I'm off to a land locked country shortly for 10 days just as ********* low pressure arrives but it ain't over until the fat lady sings and I still have 48 hours to try and get a half decent surf in.
Roll on September, I'm off somewhere with surf - I don't care where!
I've mustered two really poor surfs at the end of July, one in choppy onshore 1-2ft, the other in windless seas but on a large tide and small swell so I spent an hour dodging rocks and just about managing to stand up on the weak pulses.
Despite the dire waves, I actually surfed quite well, popping up quickly and finding the occasional bit of face but I know I'll struggle from surf fitness once we get proper waves again.
I've recently turned 40...
You can tell it's been flat as I'm now climbing the walls and getting very pissed off at missing the 1-2ft weak surf that keeps on mystically appearing around mid tide.
I was positively frothing this morning as I ran out of time for a pre work dip and may go later but it doesn't look good currently so may have to drown my sorrows at the surf club meeting tonight.
I'm off to a land locked country shortly for 10 days just as ********* low pressure arrives but it ain't over until the fat lady sings and I still have 48 hours to try and get a half decent surf in.
Roll on September, I'm off somewhere with surf - I don't care where!
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