Dippa dee doo daa...

Swell: 0.8m
Period: 10.2 seconds
Wind: light SE
Tide: Surfed the incoming tide. HT is at 9.37am, 9.1m
At the beach: 2ft+ and clean and only 4 surfers in.

A lovely day again in Porthcawl and hardly a breath of wind. I was busy getting jnr ready for nursery and decided to take a quick peek at the cam to see if the new swell had started to show yet. Doh! It had - clean lines and no-one in but the tide was pushing in fast!

I dropped Fin off and legged it down to the beach to find 3 in and clean 2ft+ sets peeling into the bay. There was plenty of swell hitting the headland too so I jogged on to check some of the other spots.

After a hot & sweaty 10 mins or so I found to my disappointment that the tide was just too big and suffocating the rockier spots.

I turned around and ran back to Rest, already knowing that I'd wasted precious time and the tide would be even further in now...

I was sweating like a wild boar at this point, so I was going in no matter what as the thought of putting my clothes back on and going into work in that state just wasn't an option.

Image from porthcawl surf:


I leashed up and entered via a rocky ledge and paddled straight out onto the peak alongside Emma who was out on her yellow longboard and catching some nice long rights.

A wave came my wave so I grabbed it and surfed it through to the inside, not bad but a tad small. A few more came in and the tide meant we all moved just that bit nearer to the rocks and beach.

I snagged 2 more rights which allowed for a couple of turns before deciding to cut my losses and head off to work.

Knowing there were rocks on the inside I took my time going in. Just as I cleared the rocks and felt soft sand under foot, a little shore dump rose up behind me and washed me off my feet.

A rocky island reared up out of nowhere (like the Lost City of Atlantis!) and like some sort of photon ray - sucked my knee straight onto it. Ouch! I limped in.

No harm done but my knee is a bit pink and sore right now.

I only caught 4 waves, but had a good jog and it was a lovely morning and it reminded me of why I moved to the coast :)

Saturday sunrise

Waves: 0.7m-1m
Period: 16+ seconds
Winds: Light N
Tide: Rising and falling. HT was 9.6m

We've had a good run recently and my initial fears of small waves were set to one side as a 16 second wave period pulsed through!

I woke early on Saturday and checked the buoys, 0.7m...disappointing but then noticed the period was off the charts. The winds were light N and I had a feeling a certain spot would be firing again.

I wasn't the only one with the same thoughts but at least it was quieter than Friday! Five or so lads were already in as Doc, Werg, Rob and I paddled out onto a high tide right hand bank.

The sunrise was spectacular with an almost extra terrestrial shade of pink, mushrooming out of the dune tops and reflecting back onto the glassy surface of the sea.

The waves were 3ft and clean but nowhere near as big as Friday but the waves kept coming despite the big tides - 9.6m and we all picked off a few fun rides.

Doc stroked into a nice clean 3 footer on the nugget and went on his way.

My first left came through, took off went up into the lip and scuffed it to find 2 kooks dropping in...oh well.

The rip kicked in around high and I decided to get out, walk down the beach and try the lefts which were starting to fire!

Aggers joined us not long after and we all had a crack at the 3-4ft rights and lefts that were coming through.

Werg had once really nice right that I saw him on, a good late drop and off he went bombing down the line! Good to see. Rob took a hit to the knee so had to sit out the remainder of the session.

The waves were getting bigger but becoming hollow close-outs now around high tide wit a few makeable shoulders but mainly just fun drops and hollow tubes to pull into before being eaten.

There was one guy on a retro style red board who was styling nicely. I'd marked hi out as a kook initially as he seemed to be doing alot of sitting around so was pleasantly surprised to see him blasting lips and laying down nice high speed turns on the inside - fair play!

I spied Aran and Chris a bit further down and we all sat within spitting distance of one another sharing the waves, stoke and rip.

The wave began to change then, doing it's hollow, wobbly plate of jelly impression at high which threw everyone a little - as you ended up bottom turning but encountering a stepped section where a smooth wave face should be. A few of the lads got bounced as a result!

I picked off one of my better waves at this point, not one of the bigger set waves but a really clean hollow wall that allowed for 4 nice, fast n tight cutbacks.

I was really pushing my turns on that one as I had bags of speed and figured I'd only get one before it died on me but each time I made one, the wave seemed to keep on going allowing for more which was a real treat :)

Took off on a bigger one next and encountered Doc on his damn nugget! LOL but I wasn't making the section anyway (or was I...) so I wasn't bothered.

Aggers went next or rather Doc and Aggers as Doc had gone into his drop in stage. Sub consciously he prob figured it was his last surf before he boarded his flight to China but he had a lovely long right ended with a nice floater, hooting merrily to himself until I pointed out Aggers had been right on his ass for the duration of that perfect wave! ;)

We'd been in around 2 hours now and as the tide turned the waves got bigger. Solid 4ft sets were peeling and barrelling their way down the line so we got out again and paddled back onto a fresh peak.

First wave was a nice steep right, followed by yet another drop in from a balding local gent who shouted at me telling me I should've shouted at him to get off the wave?!

I didn't care tbh as I was unsure if I'd make the section after laying down and ridiculously soulful bottom turn for a laugh and wasn't expecting the propulsion it gave me to make the section in the first place. Caught a few more here and there.

Another wave another drop in. went left and encountered Werg. I went and and whacked the lip anyway and he fell off as if the spray had knocked him clean off ;0 It hadn't but it made me chuckle.

Drop in no 4 or 5 now. I'm not sure what's going on? Perhaps my new board is lacking in colour or too small to see compared to my old blue and green resin tinted boards?

Everyone else had either drifted down or left now so Aggers and I had a lovely bank to ourselves apart from one other guy on a yellow fish. the sets became hollower but less frequent with long lulls but when they came they were beautiful.

I was sat a bit too wide for one set. The fish guy was in prime position but was too indecisive so left it and Aggers gratefully picked it off!

The second one he paddled for and then proceeded to push the nose of his board over the lip as he changed his mind mid take off - FFS! Leaving the last one to land on his head. What a god damn waste of a set!

Arms tiring now I decided to wait and bide my time. Eventually a nice big clean set wave appeared but what was that paddling for it?

A SUP!? Yes... it was the annoyingly good, wave hog SUP rider from Ogmore - snaffling waves from under our noses as usual.

But this time he was too wide as the middle section broke early :)

Now the only thing standing between me and glory was yellow fish boy. He bailed and off I went. I stroked into it a bit late but was far enough along the shoulder to make it comfortably.

Sun in my eyes, I swooped down into my bottom turn and went up nice and high in the lip, hovering there for a just little bit longer than I wanted to, leaving me with a a nice air drop back down.

I stayed on my feet though, just! and flew back down along the face and into a nice lip bash/carve showering a good height of spray over the back and flew back down the line and onto the shoulder, for a cutback before exiting over the back - ride complete!

That was my 'wave du jour'.

I'd endured countless drop ins and spent a good 3 hours in the water but it was definitely worth it for that one particular wave. It only takes one ride like that to remember what is so utterly amazing about this sport of ours.

I should've got out at that point but stayed in for a little longer chasing ghosts and smaller waves - getting tired and frustrated. Time to go.

Two classic days; two days on the trot :)

Everyone came out smiling that day though. I met Chris and Aran later in the car-park and they were both buzzing after their surf! I saw Aran on some super long left handers, seemingly wired into the place on that particular day.

This week looks promising....

Cloudbreak

Nothing to do with surfing in Wales but too good not to share!

Cloudbreak has been going off recently Aussies and Hawaiians getting in on the action.

Check out the clip below - laugh uncomfortably at the first trip over the falls :) and then watch in awe at the insanely deep barrel at the end.

Cloudbreak September 2010 from Surfing Life on Vimeo.

Wind 1 : Swell 0

The age old battle continues to rage. We seem to either have howling onshore winds here in Wales or nothing...

After Wednesdays classic surf, Thursday was rudely written off by SW onshore winds.

This morning, hardly a breath of N wind but the surf had all but vanished - just some faint 1ft lines and poor wave period (dribbling in at around 4 seconds).

Saturday's forecast chart shows HP moving in:


It's all set to change later apparently but I remain sceptical as high pressure moves in for the weekend.

There is however a low attempting to push in behind it so we'll have to wait and see.

Next week should be good though but I'm not convinced this weekend will be as big as currently being predicted. There's always a decent fetch but realistically that low is a good 3 days away from delivering it's payload to our shores.

Next Tues forecast chart:


I really hope I'm wrong though as light N winds will allow plenty of our breaks go off in style and I'm gagging for another good surf right now.

Keep an eye on those buoys boys & girls.

Tube rculosis

Wave height: 1.2m - at the beach, 3-4ft+ and clean
Wave period: 14 seconds
Wind: Very light SE
HT: 6.40am, 9m+ surfed on the dropping tide.

It's high time I had something good to report! This morning was picture perfect. Not a breath of wind and lovely pink skies as the sun came up.

I walked down through the dunes alone and tried to work out how many surfers lay ahead as the car park was looking pretty full.

Doing my best Ray Mears impersonation I began tracking the footprints. The newly made footprints in the wet sand were clearly visible and I worked out that there were 3 separate prints.

I jogged the rest of the way and arrived to hear the sound of the ocean crunching pebbles - always a good sign and there in amongst the clean lines sat 4 surfers? So one of the them must have had a piggy back! LOL

I stood and watched for a few mins working through some stretches and spied an obscenely hollow right further down the beach. The guys out front were struggling a bit sitting too far out for the big tide but the swell was well and truly up!

Harv paddled out and within minutes had managed to drop in on me on my first wave! A nice right hander. Don't worry... I burned him properly later on :)

On the sets, the surf was a good 4ft and clean and as the tide receded we were met with perfect hollow a frames.

Harv and I sat out back a number of times watching this insane right throw out and barrel for miles but the rip always seemed to keep it at bay and the long lulls made locating the bank tricky.

Some of the waves coming through today were so perfect they reminded me of the wave doodles you draw on your books as a kid. I just wish I'd take my camera down with me.

Eventually we got onto the super bank and surfed that for the remaining hour. The take off and drop was so fast and hollow that I was forced to commit the ultimate crime and shoulder hop as I wasn't making many.

Despite being up on my feet quickly and flying along the face at warp speed. My new bigger fins are working a treat on the Firewire and I can surf lefts again! Yipeeeee

Harv was picking off waves left, right and centre, going late on some nice ones and getting long rights all the way through to the inside - damn spongers!

I still had visions of stand up tubes in my mind so waited for the bigger ones and hoped I was in position.

Eventually I stroked into a mid sized wave and got what I'd come for. I bottomed turned slightly as it jacked up and hooked up and under the shoulder.

The sunlight streamed along the wave face in front of me and I sat there in the tube for a few moments, grinning like a fool - probably the easiest barrel I've ever had there!

A few more waves and it was time to go. Looking back there were still some nice waves down towards the industrial zone and plenty in, still surfing the point area but it had lost it's size and was quite choppy down there.

A good start to what will hopefully be a great few of days surfing!

A dry week

Not much to report this week.

It's been pretty hectic @ work and home but there's been no surf time for old gull.

The swell has been in the 2m+ realm for much of the week but gale force onshore sw winds have ruined any chance of surfing really; other than at sheltered spots and life has conspired to keep me dry this week.

Yesterday, the wind dropped right off so it was probably quite nice somewhere...with light NW. I wonder if those reefs were working?

Today high pressure looks to be back in charge. No wind and blue skies and sunshine - so it's flat! :(

A weak low is pushing over us for Sunday so there might be something small and mushy to ride before next week.

Keep an eye on Monday's low pressure as it could deliver some half decent waves later Monday and on Tuesday...we'll see.

Sunday swell

Quick surf check with fin revealed a n wind and half decent swell. The tide was well up but there were cleanish three footers steaming into the bay. Dad duties meant I was a spectator so I hope you scored some!