Thursday 15 September 2011

Calm after hurricane katia

Hurricane Katia has been battering Wales this week but sheltered spots have provided some respite even if it did mean many of us were forced to surf Coney beach :(

You can see some of the pics taken at Coney, Porthcawl here.

I popped down on Weds evening and after a frustrating 30 mins or so, finally caught a half decent wave. It was in the 3-4ft range with a howling cross offshore nw wind with the harbour wall protecting us from the brunt of the wind.

Sven and Wilks - the new dad brigade came down and we had a few laughs, sharing the waves as the sun went down, all too early at about 8pm. I left feeling shattered after all the paddling but had 3 or 4 good waves with some clean open face.

Thursday:
0.9m
10.6 seconds
Light SE winds
HT 9.30am, 9.5m+

I opted for a 'late' early today as I had the morning off, beautifully orchestrated to combine with a clean swell, decent period and SE offshore wind :)

I could hear the waves as I walked neared and spied a few lines so knew it would be nice. Spotted a large rat in the dunes as I scurried off so I guess he'd been up early!

The tides were large but sker worked through. I arrived just after 8am and scored some lovely rights, breaking quite far out and working themselves all the way down to the inside pebble bank. The waves were fast today, so you had to pick and choose your moves or get left behind.

Despite the car park being rammed, there were very few in the water as the work crowd had bailed leaving me with a nice peak and only 4 of us in.

Out back I chatted to an American girl over here from NJ who was surfing pretty good and had a few nice lefts! I'm always fascinated to know how on earth surfers from abroad manage to find out about sker but I guess word of mouth and the internet plays its part.

I finally feel like I'm finding the sweet spot on my 'dominator', getting a lot more pazazzzzzzz out of the bottom turns now and beating sections comfortably. It's taken me long enough but I'm really enjoying my surfing at the moment.

Blods eventually snaked his way into the line up ;) along with French Jeff and Sven staggered back down the bank to join us having surfed earlier despite arranging to meet me at 8am? Who knows what goes in his mind of jelly! ;)

Walking back I was accosted by a large German Shepherd bitch 'on heat' and off its lead. I decided to hold my ground as it was getting quite wound up by my presence, barking and banging its head into my Firewire! Eventually its stupid owner came over and put it on a lead at my request.

Caught a few really nice waves today, landed a couple of floaters and left feeling very contented. There were some beautiful peaks throwing out today and although small, were a joy to be amongst.

Shame I had work this afternoon but there's always tomorrow!