It's been a tough week watching perfext swells rolling to porthcawl everyday and not being able to get on it but I took today off and finally got some salt water in my ears again!
Slightly hung over and lacking sleep I hooked with will, doc and mike at our local for some wintry feeling surf. The wind was dead E so bloody cold but I'd dusted off my winter rubber and mitts so was well armed.
It's never a nice feeling paddling out for the 1st time in all that rubber and feeling knackered and ung over from last night's pub quiz (we won btw!) didn't help!
The surf however looked nice, 3-4ft and a really nice shape with peaks galore and only a handful in.
Within about 30 mins of us getting in, the tide pushed in and the surf switched off :(
It was very strange as further down the beach it was still nice and hollow.
After a frustrating 45 mins or so though it gradually began to get good again. Phew!
One of my better waves today:
I saw mike snag a double cover up! Good to see the old boy laying down some moves! Doc was all over it as usual on big red and had one insanely long ride - it just kept on going and going as did doc!
Will was in a 10 yr old suit that he fought to get into in the carpark and had no hood so did well to last the distance but he bagged lots of waves and I think we might see him a bit more this winter. He's prob in hospital by now with hyperthermia though!
The waves kept rolling through, perfectly shaped and hollow and I did my best to pull under as many lips as I could find.
I had about 5 or 6 cover ups today, a couple of really nice ones but the fish eye lens has flattened all the waves out again so everything only looks about 1ft! :(
Shattered but stoked! I think I've earnt a chinese takeaway tonight!
Friday 11 December 2009
Monday 7 December 2009
Dim surfio
Apologies for my lack of surfing blogs recently but TBH I've not been in for nearly 3 weeks! I know...
This is not good but the surf has largely been big and onshore and Coney beach close-outs haven't inspired me lately.
Jnr has been putting in some serious training in the pool though, ready for the 'Under 1's Eddie Akaui' competition next year.
We've been working on his underwater skills, holding his breath and learning not to panic on big wave hold downs.
"Right, now listen son...Wait for the 3rd wave to pass over and look for the bubbles"
I'll hopefully have some more sensible surfing blog fodder this week. More big swells are set to hit over the next few days and then high pressure moves in just as another wee hit comes through towards the end of the week so hopefully the winds will be something other than SW!
Someone mentioned Xmas is coming too?
Gull
This is not good but the surf has largely been big and onshore and Coney beach close-outs haven't inspired me lately.
Jnr has been putting in some serious training in the pool though, ready for the 'Under 1's Eddie Akaui' competition next year.
We've been working on his underwater skills, holding his breath and learning not to panic on big wave hold downs.
"Right, now listen son...Wait for the 3rd wave to pass over and look for the bubbles"
I'll hopefully have some more sensible surfing blog fodder this week. More big swells are set to hit over the next few days and then high pressure moves in just as another wee hit comes through towards the end of the week so hopefully the winds will be something other than SW!
Someone mentioned Xmas is coming too?
Gull
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