Not posted for a while as the surf has either been cranking or distinctly average so apologies.
My last good session went down 2 weeks ago. I'd booked the friday off in preparation and hooked up with greg hill for an industrial session. Super tubes wasn't super at all, it looked small, really small so we opted for plan B which was going to be our second surf spot anyway.
The tides were stupidly low, the period nudging 12 seconds and a half decent swell was running with light offshores...
Arriving at the beach we were dazzled by the extremely low tide which was still miles out although it had supposedly turned an hour ago. Never mind, we could see some lines pushing in a few guys getting some so trekked down to the water edge and paddled out.
Fun, 2-3ft waves were pushing in, pretty hollow but fast and closing out unless you got right on the end of them but we shared a few. As the afternoon wore on the wave quality improved, dan and his mate paddled out and we also blods, wilks and matt eventually, surfing a peak further down.
The waves began to go into overdrive around mid-tide and greg picked off some nice rights. I was missing my mojo a bit, I couldn't decide where to position myself and kept missing the set waves. Eventually I gave up chasing and tried for smaller, cleaner inside wave.
I paddled hard and as I jumped up, and dropped down in a jacking, hollow 3-4ft wedge, pulled into the barrel and watched greg paddling back out from inside the tube, as he hooted :)
My exit wasn't pretty, kind of a side curtain, lip avoidance but I came out and then got creamed by a few heavy close-outs for my trouble but ti gave me the adrenalin boost I needed.
We decided to try our luck down towards the steel so after a quick gulp of water on the beach moved down. The tide was pushing fast and it didn't look particularly good but as we all know, looks can be deceiving! Once we'd worked our way through the sun's glare we found some half decent 4-ft peaks.
This time I was on it and had one of those rare wave magnet moments where no matter which way I paddled the set wave came and left the crowd to one side. I caught 5 cracking waves, nice overhead drops into long, fast, walling lefts allowing for 4 or 5 turns on each ride.
I've not had waves as good as this all summer long so was well and truly stoked when we got out after a solid 3-4 hour session. Greg was only 2 hours later for his weekend away but it was his birthday and well worth it!
