Friday 23 March 2012

Heat waves



Wind: light SE, offshore
Wave Period: 12-13 seconds
Wave height: 0.9m, 3ft at the beach
Tides: High at 9.8m around 6.50am

It's been a great start to spring 2012 with a nice low pressure sitting out in the Atlantic and a blocking high over the UK meaning offshore winds and plenty of small, clean swell every day! Even the sun is shinging and we have highs of 18 degrees all weekend :)

I had an insanely perfect surf after work on Weds evening. 3-4ft reef with only 3 surfers in and good vibes. I had some lovely waves, nice, steep, fast and hollow take offs and my board is flying with the new 3 fin set up I'm trying out.

The lefts were lining up perfectly over the reef with a slower section followed by a racing hollow slab on the inside to make or break you. I went right on a few kamikaze waves and only bounced off the bottom once - great fun though and not too dangerous with a big tide over the reef :)

The only thing messing things up slightly are the tides as they've been huge so earl surfs have been tricky!

More clean waves today so an after work surf is definitely on the cards followed by some cold ale.

The weekend looks insane and then there's next week to look forward too and the clocks go forward today so we can all enjoy some 5am dawn patrols shortly.

Wednesday 14 March 2012

Summer is coming

Not much to report on the surfing front really other than a few small clean days here and there.

Had a good trip to Fuerteventura a few weeks ago but the waves weren't what I'd hoped for but we had a fun time, saw some bands, drank Desperado and Tequila and met some cool people along the way.

The wind was NE most days so cross on shore for the northern track but we surfed a number of spots and finally scored some clean surf on our penultimate day at the bubble and some surrounding reefs. The crowd was on it as clean and powerful 6-8ft sets boomed through. Spongers were controlling the lefts and getting barrelled left right and centre and the local crew were all over the rights.

Rattz and I had been surfing the gulls nest further down with mixed results. He'd opted for lefts and I'd stayed on the rights and scored a few okay rides but it soon switched off.

We paddled over to a reef near the bubble and after a few futile atempts at riding small stuff I'd had enough - this wasn't I came to Feuret for so I jostled onto the peak and managed to snag 3 waves from a pack containing some shit hot surfers.

My first was a very late effort as I'd come so close to getting waves but each time someone was on it or it closed out.

I finally got a decent ride when a surfer pulled back last minute so I threw myself over the ledge and just about hung on - tippy toes!

Bottom turned, cutback - can't really remember as it all happened so fast but the important thing was that I made the drop!

I paddled back to the channel and found rattz grinning who shouted over "Casual Barlow!" which made me chuckle as it was anything but casual in my head! more like survival ;)

The wind picked up and the swell got meaner with some serious 10ft bombs coming through and clattering the few guys left out there.

Friday night we went kind of large and as lucj would have it - the swell finally arrived! The whole coast lit up, Lobos was firing and the Harbour finally had a wave. Even the channel between shooting galleries and town had a barrlling wave!

Rattz, aran and I paddled out, some of us still a bit drunk and attempted to surf clean, fast left handers around 4-6ft+

My first few were fine and ratter scored a lovely long left but after that things went downhill. I had a nice high speed train wreck of a wipeout, aran got scraped along the reef on his back and I began to lose my mojo.

I don't think the hangover or subsequent ear infection helped as my head was booming but ratter stepped up and was the surfer of the session - about bloody time! ;0

Since then I've surfed 4 times but not had anything over 3ft really but we've had some nice evening sessions and the clocks go forward in a weeks time :)