We've had not much to sing and dance about lately. The surf has been flat too with high pressure dominating but a few have been out scoring waves in more exotic locations.
A colleague at work, passed this onto me just now and I'm not sure how old the footage is, but it's pretty insane anyway so here you go.
Night surfing at Jaws, with a head torch on... The only thing he's missing is a cup of cocoa and a good book!
High pressure is hanging around all weekend so I can't see the Tsunami Cup and Elusive comps at Rest Bay going ahead which means I can drink and be merry on Friday night after all! :)
This wave drought should be over next week, so clean up your sticks and dry out those forever damp, wetsuit boots.
Thursday 27 January 2011
Wednesday 19 January 2011
A tragic loss to South Wales surfing
I couldn't really write a local surfing blog and not mention the terrible tragedy that has hit the South Wales surfing community this week.
Tom Padden a talented 22 yr old local surfer (and former Welsh Junior Champion in 2009) was killed, along with his girlfriend Louise and dad Steve in a horrific car crash, late on Monday night on the M4.
Tom's mum, Suzanne and six month old baby Logan survived the crash.
The family were returning from a surf trip to Morocco and not too far from home when the crash happened.
At the moment, Police are saying that no other car was involved and it's thought that black ice may have been a contributing factor.
More on this story on BBC News.
It just goes to show how fragile life is and it really makes you think about your own priorities. I think as surfers we all tend to be a slightly mad bunch and go through life feeling slightly indestructible.
I guess it comes with the territory - you have to be a little unhinged to paddle out and surf big waves in the middle of winter, right?
But it's only when something like this happens that you stop and think; especially when you become a dad and have baby of your own to consider.
My thoughts are with the family and all of their close friends in Porthcawl at this difficult time.
Tom charging. Image by Peter Price:
I didn't know Tom personally but recognised him from the Welsh Surfing Championships that I filmed the year he won the Juniors, and from surfs at Rest Bay.
But from what I've read online so far, he sounded like a top bloke who will be sorely missed by his mates in the local line up and down at the Esp where he loved to charge those hollow lefts.
Tom Padden a talented 22 yr old local surfer (and former Welsh Junior Champion in 2009) was killed, along with his girlfriend Louise and dad Steve in a horrific car crash, late on Monday night on the M4.
Tom's mum, Suzanne and six month old baby Logan survived the crash.
The family were returning from a surf trip to Morocco and not too far from home when the crash happened.
At the moment, Police are saying that no other car was involved and it's thought that black ice may have been a contributing factor.
More on this story on BBC News.
It just goes to show how fragile life is and it really makes you think about your own priorities. I think as surfers we all tend to be a slightly mad bunch and go through life feeling slightly indestructible.
I guess it comes with the territory - you have to be a little unhinged to paddle out and surf big waves in the middle of winter, right?
But it's only when something like this happens that you stop and think; especially when you become a dad and have baby of your own to consider.
My thoughts are with the family and all of their close friends in Porthcawl at this difficult time.
Tom charging. Image by Peter Price:
I didn't know Tom personally but recognised him from the Welsh Surfing Championships that I filmed the year he won the Juniors, and from surfs at Rest Bay.
But from what I've read online so far, he sounded like a top bloke who will be sorely missed by his mates in the local line up and down at the Esp where he loved to charge those hollow lefts.
End of the swell
Well there we have it, the swell that's brought smiles to a lot of faces this week is finally giving up the ghost.
There are still tiny swell lines out there and a good underlying period but it's getting smaller by the hour.
I dare say some of the reefs have a wave today but get on it quick as we're in for a flat spell now until the end of the month.
Then we're in for a treat as macking low is heading our way. Still early days but this is currently on my radar for 31 Jan - 1 Feb:
There are still tiny swell lines out there and a good underlying period but it's getting smaller by the hour.
I dare say some of the reefs have a wave today but get on it quick as we're in for a flat spell now until the end of the month.
Then we're in for a treat as macking low is heading our way. Still early days but this is currently on my radar for 31 Jan - 1 Feb:
Tuesday 18 January 2011
Here comes the sun...
Another lovely day here today but no water time for Gull today.
To be honest I was just too damn tired with a 5am wake up call from Jnr - how can kids be so energised at that time of day is a mystery to me? Wanting to read books when I can hardly open my eyes until I've my first kick of caffeine!
Reports are good though. The Scarweather buoy has been hovering between 12-14 seconds all day with a 1m swell creating some lovely looking lines out to sea.
At the time of writing the tide is pushing and Rest Bay is a good 3ft, a little crumbly now but still very surfable!
Doc on Gower scored the reefs on his own for most of the session with glassy head high waves peeling in and plenty of swell out on the outer banks. Even the old bell was ringing, so if you know where that is, you'll know that the surf was well & truly up earlier!
The winds have been light NW all day so I'm sure plenty of you have scored in South and West Wales today.
Maybe tomorrow...I need to get one more surf in before high pressure kicks in. Rattz and Aran have timed their Moroccan adventure well (leaving next weds) but we're due a big hit later next week too so the flat spell will be short lived.
My American Irish buddy Josh has just mailed me a few pics from my trip to Ireland back in Nov last year so here are two contrasting shots. Enjoy ;)
To be honest I was just too damn tired with a 5am wake up call from Jnr - how can kids be so energised at that time of day is a mystery to me? Wanting to read books when I can hardly open my eyes until I've my first kick of caffeine!
Reports are good though. The Scarweather buoy has been hovering between 12-14 seconds all day with a 1m swell creating some lovely looking lines out to sea.
At the time of writing the tide is pushing and Rest Bay is a good 3ft, a little crumbly now but still very surfable!
Doc on Gower scored the reefs on his own for most of the session with glassy head high waves peeling in and plenty of swell out on the outer banks. Even the old bell was ringing, so if you know where that is, you'll know that the surf was well & truly up earlier!
The winds have been light NW all day so I'm sure plenty of you have scored in South and West Wales today.
Maybe tomorrow...I need to get one more surf in before high pressure kicks in. Rattz and Aran have timed their Moroccan adventure well (leaving next weds) but we're due a big hit later next week too so the flat spell will be short lived.
My American Irish buddy Josh has just mailed me a few pics from my trip to Ireland back in Nov last year so here are two contrasting shots. Enjoy ;)
Monday 17 January 2011
Golden orbs
Swell: 1.5m
Period: 14 seconds
Tide: Nearly low, small tides though
Wind: Hardly a breath but technically NE
At the beach: 3ft+ hollow peaks
What a treat we had today after a weekend of big and blustery; yet generally shitty surf.
The wind had died over night and I woke to a light NE breeze, barely moving the flags over Rest Bay. I processed Jnr into nursery double time today and drove down for a look at 7.50am. There were 4 in already - including Rattz and Harv who were on it at first light.
I believe they must have both wet the bed today as they're never normally in that early!
Clean 3ft+ peaks were barrelling their little heads off left and right all the way down the beach and I had my soaking suit on it about 10 seconds with barely a groan!
With the tide nearly low, you know it's going to be good when it's like this and it didn't disappoint.
I paddled out in time to see Harv taking a nice left and then got my first flush as a large set exploded repeatedly on my head - at least it had some power!
My first wave was a nice clean fast left, too fast in fact. I'd have to be up quicker and take a higher line on the next one.
Pic on porthcawlsurf today. Check out those lines!
The lefts continued to fire. Its hard to do it justice when it looks as nice as it did, not a drop out of place, a nice sunrise, no wind...you get the idea.
My next few were better or rather I was better as I was up quicker, made the initial section and found some lovely clean walls through to the inside but I wanted a right.
I told Harv I had to go in 5 mins for work so he'd leave me a set wave but he was already inside when it came ;)
A lovely 3-4ft right reared it's head and I didn't need an invitation!
I took off late, getting a nice steep drop and half expected a gaping tube but I was a millisecond too slow so bottomed turned hard and blasted a lovely clean shoulder with a kind of otl/cutback combo just in time to see a grom paddling out with a look of sheer terror in his eyes, as I skirted around him and carried on riding :)
Why people don't move is beyond me but there we go...you're meant to get out of the way of the incoming surfer.
Pic taken as I left for work - doesn't do it justice:
Wow, I was buzzing after that one and it probably made me even more annoying out back than usual as I was positively frothing at the mouth after that! ;)
The rip kicked in but not before I'd stoked into a similar sized left. Not expecting to make the drop, I was rewarded with a nice high line and warp speed which drove me right around the fast close-out section and onto a lovely clean wall! More hooting followed!
I saw Harv catching another nice right, not quite getting barrelled as the wave shut down just as he kicked out.
Ratter (ahem) was on his new 6'6 Byrne and lack of surf time was showing. I did see him catch one wave but he did his classic 'rolly polly' off the nose on take off gaining him a double thumbs up from me ;)
He did get it into a bit more later apparently but he was at cove and I was right down the other end by then.
The rip kicked in but I decided to fight it today as time was short and I wanted the best peaks for my last 30 mins or so. Rattz and Harv went with it.
So I literally had it to myself by 9am.
My heart was pounding like mad in my ears as I paddled out once more, just in time to spot a lovely set coming my way. I sat still and watched as 3 seagulls, glided in formation along a pristine, sun lit wall right in front of me - absolutely beautiful. No other sound audible apart from my heart beat!
It went hollower after that so I did my very best to get slotted which is a bad habit of mine anyway. I pulled in and stalled myself into some ridiculous body contortions but eventually made it inside one or two. One, I didn't make it out of probably offered me my best view of the day.
As I stalled and tucked under the lip, I was greeted with a perfect cylindrical tube with the sun shining right through it - proper 'surfermag' cover shot of a view inside the barrel.
Time stood still and then splat, it shut down on me! but it was a magnificent sight and made the session for me.
I caught a few more and decided it was time to go. As my feet hit the sand I was overcome with that warm, stoked feeling - (no I hadn't wet myself!), but was grinning like a fool as I walked back, marvelling at the quality of waves I was leaving behind...
High pressure on the horizon so that might be my last surf for a while but I hope not.
Period: 14 seconds
Tide: Nearly low, small tides though
Wind: Hardly a breath but technically NE
At the beach: 3ft+ hollow peaks
What a treat we had today after a weekend of big and blustery; yet generally shitty surf.
The wind had died over night and I woke to a light NE breeze, barely moving the flags over Rest Bay. I processed Jnr into nursery double time today and drove down for a look at 7.50am. There were 4 in already - including Rattz and Harv who were on it at first light.
I believe they must have both wet the bed today as they're never normally in that early!
Clean 3ft+ peaks were barrelling their little heads off left and right all the way down the beach and I had my soaking suit on it about 10 seconds with barely a groan!
With the tide nearly low, you know it's going to be good when it's like this and it didn't disappoint.
I paddled out in time to see Harv taking a nice left and then got my first flush as a large set exploded repeatedly on my head - at least it had some power!
My first wave was a nice clean fast left, too fast in fact. I'd have to be up quicker and take a higher line on the next one.
Pic on porthcawlsurf today. Check out those lines!
The lefts continued to fire. Its hard to do it justice when it looks as nice as it did, not a drop out of place, a nice sunrise, no wind...you get the idea.
My next few were better or rather I was better as I was up quicker, made the initial section and found some lovely clean walls through to the inside but I wanted a right.
I told Harv I had to go in 5 mins for work so he'd leave me a set wave but he was already inside when it came ;)
A lovely 3-4ft right reared it's head and I didn't need an invitation!
I took off late, getting a nice steep drop and half expected a gaping tube but I was a millisecond too slow so bottomed turned hard and blasted a lovely clean shoulder with a kind of otl/cutback combo just in time to see a grom paddling out with a look of sheer terror in his eyes, as I skirted around him and carried on riding :)
Why people don't move is beyond me but there we go...you're meant to get out of the way of the incoming surfer.
Pic taken as I left for work - doesn't do it justice:
Wow, I was buzzing after that one and it probably made me even more annoying out back than usual as I was positively frothing at the mouth after that! ;)
The rip kicked in but not before I'd stoked into a similar sized left. Not expecting to make the drop, I was rewarded with a nice high line and warp speed which drove me right around the fast close-out section and onto a lovely clean wall! More hooting followed!
I saw Harv catching another nice right, not quite getting barrelled as the wave shut down just as he kicked out.
Ratter (ahem) was on his new 6'6 Byrne and lack of surf time was showing. I did see him catch one wave but he did his classic 'rolly polly' off the nose on take off gaining him a double thumbs up from me ;)
He did get it into a bit more later apparently but he was at cove and I was right down the other end by then.
The rip kicked in but I decided to fight it today as time was short and I wanted the best peaks for my last 30 mins or so. Rattz and Harv went with it.
So I literally had it to myself by 9am.
My heart was pounding like mad in my ears as I paddled out once more, just in time to spot a lovely set coming my way. I sat still and watched as 3 seagulls, glided in formation along a pristine, sun lit wall right in front of me - absolutely beautiful. No other sound audible apart from my heart beat!
It went hollower after that so I did my very best to get slotted which is a bad habit of mine anyway. I pulled in and stalled myself into some ridiculous body contortions but eventually made it inside one or two. One, I didn't make it out of probably offered me my best view of the day.
As I stalled and tucked under the lip, I was greeted with a perfect cylindrical tube with the sun shining right through it - proper 'surfermag' cover shot of a view inside the barrel.
Time stood still and then splat, it shut down on me! but it was a magnificent sight and made the session for me.
I caught a few more and decided it was time to go. As my feet hit the sand I was overcome with that warm, stoked feeling - (no I hadn't wet myself!), but was grinning like a fool as I walked back, marvelling at the quality of waves I was leaving behind...
High pressure on the horizon so that might be my last surf for a while but I hope not.
Safari update
Well a quick update on the surf safari - it was dire!
Matt, Blods and I loaded up my van and headed West.
I then spent the day driving around Pembs checking places which on the swell size - 10ft+ on the buoys should have had something! but the direction just seemed a bit weird and the tiny tides didn't help matters.
BHS had a 3ft close out and 7 or so on it, but not doing much:
Manorbier was 3-4ft and surprisingly clean but a bit crumbly looking so we opted for 2ft and clean at Tenby.
There were a few bigger sets pushing through now and again which had a nice shape so I had a few ok rides but it wasn't really worth the drive.
Matt, Blods and I loaded up my van and headed West.
I then spent the day driving around Pembs checking places which on the swell size - 10ft+ on the buoys should have had something! but the direction just seemed a bit weird and the tiny tides didn't help matters.
BHS had a 3ft close out and 7 or so on it, but not doing much:
Manorbier was 3-4ft and surprisingly clean but a bit crumbly looking so we opted for 2ft and clean at Tenby.
There were a few bigger sets pushing through now and again which had a nice shape so I had a few ok rides but it wasn't really worth the drive.
Wednesday 12 January 2011
Friday wave safari
On Friday I'm going on safari so thought it a good time to say hi to all my international friends!Just been checking the stats and it seems as if I have people from as far afield as South Africa, Russia and America reading the blog? So that's nice to know.
Keep on reading and leave me a comment or something from time to time so I know I'm not the only one in here!
I'm sure I heard an echo the other day but Google have replied telling me this isn't technically possible - yet.
I'm off x spot hunting on Friday so watch this space. The elephant gun and rhino chaser are waxed up ;)
With a big swell sw swell hitting on Friday and over the weekend(4m+ swell), it should be good - somewhere!
Gull
Human Planet
This brand new series kicks off on BBC One at 8pm on 13 Jan and it is truly amazing. I've been lucky enough to see some of it in the edit and sneak previews at work and some of the footage is mind blowing!
Here's one of my favourite clips from the website so far. A native free diver, swimming down 20m and walking 'calm as you like' along the sea bed, spearing dinner:
I still haven't quite got my head around how he can make himself negatively buoyant and walk around upright so easily at those depths?!
There's also some nice surfing footage featured in one of the ocean episodes:
Here's one of my favourite clips from the website so far. A native free diver, swimming down 20m and walking 'calm as you like' along the sea bed, spearing dinner:
I still haven't quite got my head around how he can make himself negatively buoyant and walk around upright so easily at those depths?!
There's also some nice surfing footage featured in one of the ocean episodes:
Tuesday 11 January 2011
Elusive Welsh Open contest update
The Elusive Welsh Open is now due to take place on Saturday 29th January, with the Tsunami Cup on the following day. Both will take place at Rest Bay, Porthcawl.
Check in time both days will be 8am with the first heat under way at 9am.
All those previously paid entries will automatically make the draw, we still have around 8 spots available to make the maximum 32.
Please email info@elusivesurf.com for further entry details and up to date information.
The cut off point for entries will be 22nd January and a final decision will be made on Thursday 27th January.
We look forward to seeing you all there for a fantastic weekend of surfing. Fingers crossed...3rd time lucky.
Check in time both days will be 8am with the first heat under way at 9am.
All those previously paid entries will automatically make the draw, we still have around 8 spots available to make the maximum 32.
Please email info@elusivesurf.com for further entry details and up to date information.
The cut off point for entries will be 22nd January and a final decision will be made on Thursday 27th January.
We look forward to seeing you all there for a fantastic weekend of surfing. Fingers crossed...3rd time lucky.
Storm force
Plenty about this week with some 3-4 metre swells pounding our shores but apart from today when the winds stay NW for a time, we're cursed with the south westerlies so options become a little more limited.
I might take Friday off and go on an adventure...so will keep you updated on my escapades, should they amount to anything!
I might take Friday off and go on an adventure...so will keep you updated on my escapades, should they amount to anything!
Sunday session
Winds: Light NW
Tides: 1 hour before high with HT nudging 9.5m @ 9.30am
Swell: 1.6m
Waves at the beach: 3-4ft+
Had a nice early surf on Sunday whilst everyone else was either sleeping or had written off clean waves due to Saturday's wind.
Sunday was a pleasant surprise though. I peeped out the front of the house to find hardly any wind so raised Pete from his bed, picked him up and hit a local left hand reef break.
Rest Bay was cross offshore and pretty nice with some 4ft sets coming through but not a soul in sight. We trekked on to our destination to find only one other guy in, so paddled out to join him.
It turned out to to be Tristan from WCSC so we chatted a while and shared some nice waves.
The tides were large so there was a lot more water moving about there, than normal making the normally tricky take off even harder but it's a fun challenge. A fast, steep bowling drop, with a section to beat straight after take off followed by a fast wall which occasionally barrelled. If you made all that then you were a happy chappy :)
Pete wasn't so keen on lefts but caught a few and wore some on the head before deciding to try and snag a right from somewhere further over towards the island...
I stayed put and caught a few okay rides with one or two holding up nicely and one or two slamming me downwards into the reef but all good fun! The sun was warm and after about 1.5 hours we'd had our fill.
Walking back Rest was now populated but looked a dribbly 2-3ft so we definitely made the right decision.
Tides: 1 hour before high with HT nudging 9.5m @ 9.30am
Swell: 1.6m
Waves at the beach: 3-4ft+
Had a nice early surf on Sunday whilst everyone else was either sleeping or had written off clean waves due to Saturday's wind.
Sunday was a pleasant surprise though. I peeped out the front of the house to find hardly any wind so raised Pete from his bed, picked him up and hit a local left hand reef break.
Rest Bay was cross offshore and pretty nice with some 4ft sets coming through but not a soul in sight. We trekked on to our destination to find only one other guy in, so paddled out to join him.
It turned out to to be Tristan from WCSC so we chatted a while and shared some nice waves.
The tides were large so there was a lot more water moving about there, than normal making the normally tricky take off even harder but it's a fun challenge. A fast, steep bowling drop, with a section to beat straight after take off followed by a fast wall which occasionally barrelled. If you made all that then you were a happy chappy :)
Pete wasn't so keen on lefts but caught a few and wore some on the head before deciding to try and snag a right from somewhere further over towards the island...
I stayed put and caught a few okay rides with one or two holding up nicely and one or two slamming me downwards into the reef but all good fun! The sun was warm and after about 1.5 hours we'd had our fill.
Walking back Rest was now populated but looked a dribbly 2-3ft so we definitely made the right decision.
Thursday 6 January 2011
Tuesday 4 January 2011
Xmas cracker
Well that's Xmas over for another year...
The Xmas Day swim at Coney Beach was great fun if a little cold underfoot - I actually had frost burn on some of my little pinkies for a few days afterwards but the water itself wasn't too bad and warmer than expected.
After that the swell came in and we were blessed with clean waves for around a week! Boxing Day was small but perfectly formed and from then on in the waves picked up in size.
On Monday I checked Ogmore and nearly came a cropper trying to get the van up the steep hill in the melting snow. The waves were clean but it was too cold to bother at 2-3ft so I headed back to the 'Cawl with Kev in tow.
The tide was pushing in fast but there was much more swell around so we hit a local reef break. It's normally quiet but was we rounded the corner - horror of all horrors! There were 7 guys on it?!
We decided that we'd come this far and faffed around enough already so paddled out and across to a right hand point that was holding a wave, breaking very close to some large, mean looking rocks. We picked off a few, biding our time really for the crowd to either thin or the tide to start dropping.
Eventually there were only 2 left on the reef, local rippers Greg and Rhino so we joined them and had a fun session in hollow 4 foot waves which were beginning to spit air out of the tubes towards the end.
My first wave was a left which came from nowhere and was prob my biggest and best wave. I'm not really sure what happened as it was all so quick.
The wave jacks incredibly fast and before you know it, you're either picking seaweed out of your teeth or flying along a clean face, grabbing the inside rail backhand for stability before flying out into the channel!
Kev then had a few nice long lefts and came back smiling, mumbling about his love for his 'nugget'!
I had a few nice waves including some rights which I've not ridden here before as it means taking off and surfing towards shallow rocks on the point, so not a natural wave but it can be done when the tide is high enough and it holds a good barrel.
I think my next session was on Wednesday at Rest Bay when we had a solid 4-5ft swell and clean with light but chilly NE winds. The waves were fantastic but I was not!
I felt completely worn out after not surfing for nearly 6 weeks and Monday's first dip back had felt much better. The tank was well & truly empty and I gave it my all but never really found my stride. Paddling against the rip was incredibly tiring and the cold drained what little energy I had left.
There were some lovely looking waves coming through especially the rights but I probably only had 4 good waves, 2 lefts and 2 rights with about 10 being ridden in total so well below my normal wave count. It seems from talking to people that the cold & lack of surf time meant most people struggled that day too!
I gave it a miss the next day, caught up on some sleep and was better for it on the Friday. My local spot was absolutely firing. Only 3ft but perfect and I found some form, carving up some nice long rights and scoring plenty of cover-ups and a few barrels for my troubles.
It began small and clean, gradually building into nice bowling lefts and rights. I changed between the two as the tide pushed, sharing waves with Aran, Sven and Chris. On one wave I did the unthinkable and dropped in on Chris who'd had the previous right and was way too deep anyway....honest!
Luckily he didn't make the section but was behind me long enough to see me pull in and out of a nice right hand tube - sorry Chris! ;)
Aran had some nice waves and wipe-outs to boot, falling off an insanely perfect right on his backhand having made the drop, only to do it later (for the pair) on a perfect left but he had his share of good ones too!
Sven struggled, having worked all over Xmas and lacking water time and surf fitness but was always hovering on the shoulder, trying to drop in, so kept me on my toes! ;)
After 2.5 hrs I was well and truly stoked but my pop-up was getting more and more 'sloth like' so it was time to go!
My last surf was on Sunday, same spot, bitterly cold with a dead E wind and clean 2-3ft surf. The wave period was hovering around 18 seconds! so we hit it on the pushing tide about 1.30pm. Kev found solitude on the reefs that day reporting 4-5ft perfection.
The waves sven, wilks, blods and I had were okay, hard work as you had to paddle hard and be up fast to work the small wave face but it did improve towards high tide and looked really nice as we left. I had a few decent cutties on my forehand but there was a limit to what you could do in small surf.
I also had my first bout of cramp for 2011 but a quick stretch on the beach and I was okay for a few more.
Wilks picked off some nice lefts and one lovely right on his way to the beach. Blods was catching a few lefts but not happy with the wave size.
Sven eventually got going, struggling with fitness and having a leaky cold winter suit, boots and gloves but did have a nice left to finish on, laying down a 3 nice turns on the face and making the inside section to go off the lip before the sniper got to him!
2010 ended terribly but 2011 has started well. Here's to more perfection!
The Xmas Day swim at Coney Beach was great fun if a little cold underfoot - I actually had frost burn on some of my little pinkies for a few days afterwards but the water itself wasn't too bad and warmer than expected.
After that the swell came in and we were blessed with clean waves for around a week! Boxing Day was small but perfectly formed and from then on in the waves picked up in size.
On Monday I checked Ogmore and nearly came a cropper trying to get the van up the steep hill in the melting snow. The waves were clean but it was too cold to bother at 2-3ft so I headed back to the 'Cawl with Kev in tow.
The tide was pushing in fast but there was much more swell around so we hit a local reef break. It's normally quiet but was we rounded the corner - horror of all horrors! There were 7 guys on it?!
We decided that we'd come this far and faffed around enough already so paddled out and across to a right hand point that was holding a wave, breaking very close to some large, mean looking rocks. We picked off a few, biding our time really for the crowd to either thin or the tide to start dropping.
Eventually there were only 2 left on the reef, local rippers Greg and Rhino so we joined them and had a fun session in hollow 4 foot waves which were beginning to spit air out of the tubes towards the end.
My first wave was a left which came from nowhere and was prob my biggest and best wave. I'm not really sure what happened as it was all so quick.
The wave jacks incredibly fast and before you know it, you're either picking seaweed out of your teeth or flying along a clean face, grabbing the inside rail backhand for stability before flying out into the channel!
Kev then had a few nice long lefts and came back smiling, mumbling about his love for his 'nugget'!
I had a few nice waves including some rights which I've not ridden here before as it means taking off and surfing towards shallow rocks on the point, so not a natural wave but it can be done when the tide is high enough and it holds a good barrel.
I think my next session was on Wednesday at Rest Bay when we had a solid 4-5ft swell and clean with light but chilly NE winds. The waves were fantastic but I was not!
I felt completely worn out after not surfing for nearly 6 weeks and Monday's first dip back had felt much better. The tank was well & truly empty and I gave it my all but never really found my stride. Paddling against the rip was incredibly tiring and the cold drained what little energy I had left.
There were some lovely looking waves coming through especially the rights but I probably only had 4 good waves, 2 lefts and 2 rights with about 10 being ridden in total so well below my normal wave count. It seems from talking to people that the cold & lack of surf time meant most people struggled that day too!
I gave it a miss the next day, caught up on some sleep and was better for it on the Friday. My local spot was absolutely firing. Only 3ft but perfect and I found some form, carving up some nice long rights and scoring plenty of cover-ups and a few barrels for my troubles.
It began small and clean, gradually building into nice bowling lefts and rights. I changed between the two as the tide pushed, sharing waves with Aran, Sven and Chris. On one wave I did the unthinkable and dropped in on Chris who'd had the previous right and was way too deep anyway....honest!
Luckily he didn't make the section but was behind me long enough to see me pull in and out of a nice right hand tube - sorry Chris! ;)
Aran had some nice waves and wipe-outs to boot, falling off an insanely perfect right on his backhand having made the drop, only to do it later (for the pair) on a perfect left but he had his share of good ones too!
Sven struggled, having worked all over Xmas and lacking water time and surf fitness but was always hovering on the shoulder, trying to drop in, so kept me on my toes! ;)
After 2.5 hrs I was well and truly stoked but my pop-up was getting more and more 'sloth like' so it was time to go!
My last surf was on Sunday, same spot, bitterly cold with a dead E wind and clean 2-3ft surf. The wave period was hovering around 18 seconds! so we hit it on the pushing tide about 1.30pm. Kev found solitude on the reefs that day reporting 4-5ft perfection
The waves sven, wilks, blods and I had were okay, hard work as you had to paddle hard and be up fast to work the small wave face but it did improve towards high tide and looked really nice as we left. I had a few decent cutties on my forehand but there was a limit to what you could do in small surf.
I also had my first bout of cramp for 2011 but a quick stretch on the beach and I was okay for a few more.
Wilks picked off some nice lefts and one lovely right on his way to the beach. Blods was catching a few lefts but not happy with the wave size.
Sven eventually got going, struggling with fitness and having a leaky cold winter suit, boots and gloves but did have a nice left to finish on, laying down a 3 nice turns on the face and making the inside section to go off the lip before the sniper got to him!
2010 ended terribly but 2011 has started well. Here's to more perfection!
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