6am: 1.2m, 11.9 secs (dominant wave period), 264 direction, 30 spread, 14.95 deg c
On the ground: 2ft+ and hollow
One of the best things about having a new baby is that you don't need to rely on an alarm clock and their batteries never run out!
4am start today, my fault I suggested picking him up...
By 5.30am he's finally drifted off again and with my alarm set for 5.45am I opted for some brekkie and checked the data at Gull HQ.
0.9M, 11 sec period and a healthy SE wind. Worth a punt! Two to three and I'd be happy.
I had some garbled message on my mobile from Doc who'd got lost but with larry as co pilot anything is possible ;) Phoned him back to explain where he had to go and met up with those guys and Harv in his brand new shiny ladies car. But at least it's red
Pleasantries done we stomped off down that long dirty track to the beach. The tide was 2 hrs back and the swell not huge but nice and hollow.
We spent a few mins running in different directions towards peaks and then changing our minds. To an onlooker we must have looked like escaped loons from the local secure unit.
Eventually we settled on a bank and paddled out. The waves were 2ft+ and hollow but prone to shutting down but we made the best of it. Docs long board was getting caught out by the wind and he got blown off a few.
H-man seemed to be happy and reported a few pits and larry got off to a good start, working his lines.
The waves seemed to die down slightly but after about 45 mins, dropped back onto a decent bank and we were in business with consistent sucky 2ft+ waves barrelling their way down the line.
Harv allowed me to surf 'his peak' and drop in on him which was nice - and all free of charge! :)
We then shared lefts and rights as more and more sets came our way.
Larry meanwhile was in no man's land and was waiting for something - what we'll never know but he was a long way out whilst we surfed what was basically a hollow shorey.
He kept signalling out to sea with both arms out stretched over his head? I've a feeling he was having 'nam flashbacks...
Larry finally caught a decent wave and I even saw the old boy float a nice section. Doc stepped up next with a really nice long right followed by a nice little head dip.
The fish were on fine form today. We should haveve taken a net...
Doc had 1 kamikazee bass fly straight at his back, narrowly missing him. I had another jump straight out of the water in front of me on a wave. Very bizarre to see them in action so early in the day.
As he took off I screamed the call of the day 'head dip!!!!'as he shot past me,dodging the 1st lip before tucking in at the end and making a nice exit.
Harv was pulling in and making a few and kept kissing his guns after each ride?! LOL and I was doing my hardest to try and get some cover after Tuesday's warm up session.
My last wave I got right inside the pigs eye and lived to tell the tale :)
Paddling back out after a very average wave, I spotted a set jacking up.
I decided to take a punt and swivelled around and into it quickly. It could have gone either way.
As luck would have it, I dropped down into a nice sand sucking barrel, completely engulfed and exited out the side curtain before it unloaded onto the shore - My wave in!
I was tempted to paddle out for one more as the sets were getting bigger but remembered what a wise man once said: "Always finish on a good one"
If only I'd had my go pro camera, set up....oh well, maybe next time
Time for work.
I bade larry a fond farewell to which he replied "larry's not here! He didn't turn up today...!"
The legend grows.
Friday 30 October 2009
Salt water buddha takes a bite of the apple
Nothing new but some of you may not have come across these crazy Meyerhoffer shapes.
It all starts to make sense now...he's an old designer from the Apple stables!
A nice read though.
Wednesday 28 October 2009
Tick tock, tick tock
Me finding some early morning shade:
Who said the clocks going back was a bad thing?
For us insomniacs out there, it means one thing - more dawn patrols! For a little while longer anyway...
I'd arranged to meet up with Adie from frames photography for a few shots somewhere new for him and outside of Pembrokeshire.
He'd brought back up in the shape of his big buddy Reuben just in case we planned to rob him of his new fish eye lens. I'd given him instructions...drive down the dark wooded lane, dodge the potholes and park up.
Look at that lip...Mmmmmm
As it happened I was first to arrive and greeted by one other lone, mad surfer, who was busy texting away in his car waiting for 'dawn' to show her face.
She arrived and was beautiful with nice pink clouds bubbling around the smoke stacks of the nearby chocolate factory.
Reuben was probably the most unenthused surfer I'd ever met at 6am! LOL - Not really wanting to leave the comfort and warmth of the car but he seemed to perk up once he got wet! 'Just add water'
Reuben in action:
Eventually everyone had arrived and we marched off towards the beach.
The period was a whopping 17 seconds and we had lightish SSE winds and a 0.9m building swell. The outer buoys were all showing 2m+ so expectations were high.
The waves were around 3-4ft and nice and clean and hollow for the 1st hour but went a bit pair shaped later on. Nevertheless we made the best of it and ratter and I managed to get our beaks under the lip.
Ratter squeaked into a nice little cover up once he found his stride and I found a bit of shelter myself. Ed was out catching plenty and seemed to be enjoying himself but no sign of Adie or Reuben?
Ratter eyes up the hollow section ahead:
We began to wonder if they'd gone back to bed? About 30 mins later we spied them down the other end of the beach!
An hour passed and we enjoyed some really nice fast clean waves. Reuben and Adie joined us and for the next 30 mins we shared some nice waves.
Adie was copping plenty of white water on the inside and I felt quite sorry for him, having to swim out with all that cumbersome kit in tow.
Having a world famous photographer sat inside of me with his big flash gun protuding out of the sea like 'Nautilus' put me off my stride a little and I struggled to find any good waves.
Ratter snagged a few nice set waves and I was getting hungry!
Eventually I snagged a few but the surf had already begun to change.
Big ugly close outs had started to appear which spoilt an otherwise half decent session. After about 2 hours we all called it day and went about our respective business.
On another note - I used my surf plugs for the first time and they were excellent! I had a nightmare of a paddle out and they stayed fast and I came in with no water washing around my sinuses so they get a big thumbs up from me.
Read Adie's blog from this day
Who said the clocks going back was a bad thing?
For us insomniacs out there, it means one thing - more dawn patrols! For a little while longer anyway...
I'd arranged to meet up with Adie from frames photography for a few shots somewhere new for him and outside of Pembrokeshire.
He'd brought back up in the shape of his big buddy Reuben just in case we planned to rob him of his new fish eye lens. I'd given him instructions...drive down the dark wooded lane, dodge the potholes and park up.
Look at that lip...Mmmmmm
As it happened I was first to arrive and greeted by one other lone, mad surfer, who was busy texting away in his car waiting for 'dawn' to show her face.
She arrived and was beautiful with nice pink clouds bubbling around the smoke stacks of the nearby chocolate factory.
Reuben was probably the most unenthused surfer I'd ever met at 6am! LOL - Not really wanting to leave the comfort and warmth of the car but he seemed to perk up once he got wet! 'Just add water'
Reuben in action:
Eventually everyone had arrived and we marched off towards the beach.
The period was a whopping 17 seconds and we had lightish SSE winds and a 0.9m building swell. The outer buoys were all showing 2m+ so expectations were high.
The waves were around 3-4ft and nice and clean and hollow for the 1st hour but went a bit pair shaped later on. Nevertheless we made the best of it and ratter and I managed to get our beaks under the lip.
Ratter squeaked into a nice little cover up once he found his stride and I found a bit of shelter myself. Ed was out catching plenty and seemed to be enjoying himself but no sign of Adie or Reuben?
Ratter eyes up the hollow section ahead:
We began to wonder if they'd gone back to bed? About 30 mins later we spied them down the other end of the beach!
An hour passed and we enjoyed some really nice fast clean waves. Reuben and Adie joined us and for the next 30 mins we shared some nice waves.
Adie was copping plenty of white water on the inside and I felt quite sorry for him, having to swim out with all that cumbersome kit in tow.
Having a world famous photographer sat inside of me with his big flash gun protuding out of the sea like 'Nautilus' put me off my stride a little and I struggled to find any good waves.
Ratter snagged a few nice set waves and I was getting hungry!
Eventually I snagged a few but the surf had already begun to change.
Big ugly close outs had started to appear which spoilt an otherwise half decent session. After about 2 hours we all called it day and went about our respective business.
On another note - I used my surf plugs for the first time and they were excellent! I had a nightmare of a paddle out and they stayed fast and I came in with no water washing around my sinuses so they get a big thumbs up from me.
Read Adie's blog from this day
Thursday 22 October 2009
UK Pro Surf Tour coming to Porthcawl
Press release:
31st October – 1st November 2009, Rest Bay, Porthcawl Wales
www.ukprosurf.com
The Welsh leg of the UK Pro Surf Tour is fast approaching. The elite of UK Surfers will be making their way to Porthcawl for the biggest surfing event in Wales this year.
Winners from the past have included: Nathan Phillips (Llantwit) Mark Harris (Newquay), Matt Capel (S Devon) and Russell Winter (Newquay) all of which will be competing for this year’s title.
For the first time there will be an Under 16 Boys division. Current tour leader Leon Mansfield (Newquay) will be up against local favourite Max Tucker (Porthcawl) amongst many others vying for the inaugural title.
For further information please contact: Dave Reed 01637 854854 or visit the website: www.ukprosurf.com
31st October – 1st November 2009, Rest Bay, Porthcawl Wales
www.ukprosurf.com
The Welsh leg of the UK Pro Surf Tour is fast approaching. The elite of UK Surfers will be making their way to Porthcawl for the biggest surfing event in Wales this year.
Winners from the past have included: Nathan Phillips (Llantwit) Mark Harris (Newquay), Matt Capel (S Devon) and Russell Winter (Newquay) all of which will be competing for this year’s title.
For the first time there will be an Under 16 Boys division. Current tour leader Leon Mansfield (Newquay) will be up against local favourite Max Tucker (Porthcawl) amongst many others vying for the inaugural title.
For further information please contact: Dave Reed 01637 854854 or visit the website: www.ukprosurf.com
Wednesday 21 October 2009
Muddy waters
Swell: 1.6m
Period: 17 seconds!
Wind: Light SE
Tides: HT 8.48am, 9.7m
The alarm buzzed at 6am and a quick glance out of the window showed a nice SE breeze. the period was up but the swell size was not as big as predicted.
I'd arranged to meet Doc and Larry @ our local, well mine now I've moved and after quickly trawling through the 10+ messages from everyone asking where I was going, what was I having for brekkie, had I had a dump yet? I made my way out of the house.
New wetty in hand and my faithful single fin pintail under my arm, off I went.
Drove the 5 mins to the car park and proceeded to wait... It was pitch black and I was beginning to wonder if anyone was going to show up?!
It turned out that Larry had the fear about wave size at x and Doc had opted to go silly @ Rhosilli instead? No comment.... XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The clock was ticking so at 7.05am precisely I bailed for spot No deux as I didn't fancy x at probably overhead size in the dark, on my own.
I have a son now so have to be a little bit more responsible! ;)
It only took me 15 mins to get to spot 2, a nice set up which I'd watched over the years but always found to be a bit slow and crowded so never bothered with.
Good to see the 'beach' family once again - they don't seem to sleep either!
I'd hoped for a solid 6ft swell but clean 3-4ft lines were stroking through (on sets) and the tide was racing in so I joined squid lips and his posse for a quick paddle out.
It took a while to get into it mainly due to a wave hogging SUP rider who snagged every single set wave that came our way. The 'ancients' would not have approved of his spirit! Aloha my arse..
Once he'd buggered off I got into a few. Nice long, right handers, head high and clean as a whistle. I even tried to pull under a few lips...
The sun poked through and suddenly the world felt alright! Surprisingly warm there.
I was expecting it to be colder a but it was nice and snug and a new 5/3 wetty helped.
I saw guys out in full winter suits, boots and gloves today?
No idea what that is all about as the sea is still a good 15 degs.
Lefts and rights were coming through but tending to shut down in the middle sections so you had to be quite choosy but I slid into a couple of beauties eventually.
Had a couple of hrs in before it was time for work. I only had around 5 good waves but surfing somewhere new can often provide a stoke that you just don't get from surfing classic waves at your local break.
As I left I discovered the exit was a little more challenging than I'd expected and the main peak had become very crowded indeedy!
Harv sent this one in of Rest Bay on the drop at 1pm today:
Looked lovely as I left so hopefully claire beach has some nice pics I can link to shortly.
Drop in's galore and plenty of kooks but a few good rides to be had.
I'll def go back (groan from the locals) but only on a bigger swell! (hurray)
Tomorrow is another day...
Gull
Period: 17 seconds!
Wind: Light SE
Tides: HT 8.48am, 9.7m
The alarm buzzed at 6am and a quick glance out of the window showed a nice SE breeze. the period was up but the swell size was not as big as predicted.
I'd arranged to meet Doc and Larry @ our local, well mine now I've moved and after quickly trawling through the 10+ messages from everyone asking where I was going, what was I having for brekkie, had I had a dump yet? I made my way out of the house.
New wetty in hand and my faithful single fin pintail under my arm, off I went.
Drove the 5 mins to the car park and proceeded to wait... It was pitch black and I was beginning to wonder if anyone was going to show up?!
It turned out that Larry had the fear about wave size at x and Doc had opted to go silly @ Rhosilli instead? No comment.... XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The clock was ticking so at 7.05am precisely I bailed for spot No deux as I didn't fancy x at probably overhead size in the dark, on my own.
I have a son now so have to be a little bit more responsible! ;)
It only took me 15 mins to get to spot 2, a nice set up which I'd watched over the years but always found to be a bit slow and crowded so never bothered with.
Good to see the 'beach' family once again - they don't seem to sleep either!
I'd hoped for a solid 6ft swell but clean 3-4ft lines were stroking through (on sets) and the tide was racing in so I joined squid lips and his posse for a quick paddle out.
It took a while to get into it mainly due to a wave hogging SUP rider who snagged every single set wave that came our way. The 'ancients' would not have approved of his spirit! Aloha my arse..
Once he'd buggered off I got into a few. Nice long, right handers, head high and clean as a whistle. I even tried to pull under a few lips...
The sun poked through and suddenly the world felt alright! Surprisingly warm there.
I was expecting it to be colder a but it was nice and snug and a new 5/3 wetty helped.
I saw guys out in full winter suits, boots and gloves today?
No idea what that is all about as the sea is still a good 15 degs.
Lefts and rights were coming through but tending to shut down in the middle sections so you had to be quite choosy but I slid into a couple of beauties eventually.
Had a couple of hrs in before it was time for work. I only had around 5 good waves but surfing somewhere new can often provide a stoke that you just don't get from surfing classic waves at your local break.
As I left I discovered the exit was a little more challenging than I'd expected and the main peak had become very crowded indeedy!
Harv sent this one in of Rest Bay on the drop at 1pm today:
Looked lovely as I left so hopefully claire beach has some nice pics I can link to shortly.
Drop in's galore and plenty of kooks but a few good rides to be had.
I'll def go back (groan from the locals) but only on a bigger swell! (hurray)
Tomorrow is another day...
Gull
Monday 19 October 2009
Kong's island
A recent jaunt to a remote Gower reef. Photos courtesy of lensman, Bic.
It's a long old hike, followed by a steep climb down and a nice shallow set up. Amazing scenery though! I was joined by Mike and Harv on this trip.
As we neared the cliffs my heart sank...Nice clean swell lines but no real size. The tides were big, 12m+ and high pressure was pushing in rapidly.
We sat down and prayed to Huey to deliver us from evil...
The waves were unfortunately very small. Last time I surfed it, I had my ass handed back to me on a plate on more than one occasion so I was expecting more of the same.
I'd been telling Harv all about the steep sucky take off's and hollow heaving pits breaking over the slab for those daring enough to go deep.
'Sharing one' with mike 'laid back larry':
We waited and waited for the big tide to race back but as it did, it took the swell with it and we were left with at times dry reef and a 2ft+ wave on sets.
Pig dogging my way into a minuscule cover up:
I'd taken my single fin as I was expecting some gut wrenching drops into 'gaping pits of doom' so was a little over gunned for this particular day but it paddled into waves nicely.
Generating a wee bit of spray:
Getting a wave was one thing. Staying with it and getting a turn out of it was another but I gave it my best shot.
The long hike home:
All pics by Mark 'Bic' Evans
Friday 16 October 2009
Autumn treat
The clocks go back on 25 Oct but don't despair it's not winter yet!
This week we've had a small clean swell and a decent wave period for much of it. Things improve from around Sunday onwards but it's the next little low that is getting exciting:
To summarise - next week is set to pump!
And the winds should be fairly kind too with a good stiff measure of offshore thrown in.
The water is still warm, around 16 degs c but anything with a N or E in the wind and it can feel decidedly chilly now especially once the sun starts to get low in the sky.
I've come out shivering a little the last few surfs I've had.
As a result I invested in some warmth - last year's 5/3/ O'Neill Epic for £100 from Boardriders
I figured you can't go wrong for that price and it's a good fit so my gamble paid off. I just need to christen it now...
Off to get my ears moulded tomorrow for some surfplugs - £65 a pop but worth it as you can't really replace your hearing.
Check out the recent dolphin footie footage on my nature site.
That's it for now
Gull
This week we've had a small clean swell and a decent wave period for much of it. Things improve from around Sunday onwards but it's the next little low that is getting exciting:
To summarise - next week is set to pump!
And the winds should be fairly kind too with a good stiff measure of offshore thrown in.
The water is still warm, around 16 degs c but anything with a N or E in the wind and it can feel decidedly chilly now especially once the sun starts to get low in the sky.
I've come out shivering a little the last few surfs I've had.
As a result I invested in some warmth - last year's 5/3/ O'Neill Epic for £100 from Boardriders
I figured you can't go wrong for that price and it's a good fit so my gamble paid off. I just need to christen it now...
Off to get my ears moulded tomorrow for some surfplugs - £65 a pop but worth it as you can't really replace your hearing.
Check out the recent dolphin footie footage on my nature site.
That's it for now
Gull
Tuesday 13 October 2009
Friday 9 October 2009
Elusive Welsh Open this weekend
The Pro Tour is coming to town, so Rest Bay will be rammed this weekend.
Should have some decent swell too and the winds aren't too bad so should make for an entertaining comp.
Keep an eye out for car thieves, the local police have started a crack down but be vigilant all the same and don't leave keys under the car - 'they are watching you'.
All the info is on my BBC blog.
Saves me repeating myself!
Enjoy the comp if you head down and mail me some pics if you do: wales.surfing@bbc.co.uk
Goodluck to the Welsh guys entering!
Gull
Should have some decent swell too and the winds aren't too bad so should make for an entertaining comp.
Keep an eye out for car thieves, the local police have started a crack down but be vigilant all the same and don't leave keys under the car - 'they are watching you'.
All the info is on my BBC blog.
Saves me repeating myself!
Enjoy the comp if you head down and mail me some pics if you do: wales.surfing@bbc.co.uk
Goodluck to the Welsh guys entering!
Gull
Tuesday 6 October 2009
What next?
I was this '' close to ordering my new bonzer recently.
Malcolm Campbell was over in Cornwall shaping at Nigel Semmens factory.
I found out a bit late in the day and contacted UK rep Guy Penwarden.
After a long chat, I was given till the next day 'at the latest' to consider my options but they'd "def squeeze a board in for me". Great :)
Would it be a contemporary bonzer shape, something in the 6'3"x19x2/5/8 region taking me back to my thruster roots - heaven forbid!
But I do occasionally wonder how I'd go on a skinnier board once more...
Once you've learnt to generate speed and spray on a bumblebee stub, everything else feels like a toy with little effort required.
Then Guy began to wax lyrical about the new bumble bee with pulled in narrower tail and less volume...might be worth considering?
I'd make up my mind and made the call early on the following day.
No reply...
3 more calls, a voice message and 2 texts later I gave up.
There's only so much chasing a man can do!
So there we go - No new bonzer - A shame but at least it's saved me some money.
To say I was pissed off with Mr Penwarden would be an understatement ;)
You can't represent Bonzer vehicles UK - 'be mindful', 'be peaceful' and all that other gubbins and then piss off some of your more 'mindful' customers by ignoring their phone calls and board orders.
My last board took 2yrs to arrive and came with the wrong rear fin.
He then buggered off early on the very day I was due to collect the damn thing - A 4 hr drive for me, so I had to wait a further 3 weeks for it!
How are we supposed to order boards - using telepathy?!
Does this spell the end of my love affair with the bonzer concept - No.
Will I be ordering boards via Guy in the UK - probably not.
I think I'll take the hit and pay for import charges instead from now on.
What was I going to order? Time will tell
But I am beginning to realise now why the humble bonzer has not taken off in the way it should have done, 'globally'.
Malcolm Campbell was over in Cornwall shaping at Nigel Semmens factory.
I found out a bit late in the day and contacted UK rep Guy Penwarden.
After a long chat, I was given till the next day 'at the latest' to consider my options but they'd "def squeeze a board in for me". Great :)
Would it be a contemporary bonzer shape, something in the 6'3"x19x2/5/8 region taking me back to my thruster roots - heaven forbid!
But I do occasionally wonder how I'd go on a skinnier board once more...
Once you've learnt to generate speed and spray on a bumblebee stub, everything else feels like a toy with little effort required.
Then Guy began to wax lyrical about the new bumble bee with pulled in narrower tail and less volume...might be worth considering?
I'd make up my mind and made the call early on the following day.
No reply...
3 more calls, a voice message and 2 texts later I gave up.
There's only so much chasing a man can do!
So there we go - No new bonzer - A shame but at least it's saved me some money.
To say I was pissed off with Mr Penwarden would be an understatement ;)
You can't represent Bonzer vehicles UK - 'be mindful', 'be peaceful' and all that other gubbins and then piss off some of your more 'mindful' customers by ignoring their phone calls and board orders.
My last board took 2yrs to arrive and came with the wrong rear fin.
He then buggered off early on the very day I was due to collect the damn thing - A 4 hr drive for me, so I had to wait a further 3 weeks for it!
How are we supposed to order boards - using telepathy?!
Does this spell the end of my love affair with the bonzer concept - No.
Will I be ordering boards via Guy in the UK - probably not.
I think I'll take the hit and pay for import charges instead from now on.
What was I going to order? Time will tell
But I am beginning to realise now why the humble bonzer has not taken off in the way it should have done, 'globally'.
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