The water is still relatively warm, around 13 degs last time I checked and we've had an abundance of solid groundswell and half decent wave periods, combined with a few offshore days.
The swells come and go but I've lost my mojo lately and can't say I've had a really good surf since my last session @ Morfa.
I've had a few Thurs and Fri dawnies @ sker and while it's been pretty big at times, the wave shape hasn't quite been there and it's been more big drops than manoeuvres.
The winter rubber and boots are also on which doesn't help but I'm beginning to think it's time to get back onto my bonzer and do what I was born to do - carve! ;)
Rest Bay has been fairly classic too as these shots from Claire Beach show: aerials, barrels, big overhead drops have been on offer.
Saturday 19 November was pretty special too with report of 6ft+ in the morning and super clean. I met up with Doc to surf the dropping tide from 1pm onwards and we enjoyed offshore, empty lineups with fun but heavy 3-4ft+ until later afternoon.
I pulled the stops out and paid a fair few times, going late and making some but getting beaten in the process. One particular wave stands out as I my neck still aches! I took off late on a really warping, bowly left.
Didn't make the drop and slipped backwards off my board at the base of the wave landing on my back with my head facing the lip.
I must've hit the water hard and got a bit of whiplash followed by the lip landing square on the back of my neck causing a click and some pain. Luckily no permanent damage done and lets face it we're not in Hawaii but sker always packs a punch!
The previous week I lip launched on another chunky day, made the drop on a lovely right but just twitched the rail before the fins bit, and off I went - again landing flat on the wave face :(
The lip nailed me and then sucked me up and over and the bloody thing just held me down, span me round. I waited, no, panicked slightly, no, relaxed again, no still I went down, so dark I couldn't see which way was up and then with a bit more struggling I got up to the surface!
I've not had a hold down like that for ages but keep getting battered lately! That's the 3rd bad one in a month now after years of escaping so maybe Huey is finally catching me up...
Time for new boots, might make a difference as my feet are all over the place currently, especially on my backhand. I just feel like I need a good day on the reefs where I can catch wave after perfect wave and focus on surfing and not paddling.
More huge lows on the horizon so it should be an interesting week ahead!
