Tuesday 24 May 2011

When the wind blows

Gull's cradle will rock but that's about all as it's been completely blown out of late! The Porthcawl wind data recorded a 92km gust yesterday and it seems to have been blowing for days now :(

Coney has been a mess with small tides so the wind has still managed to ruin things but a few deperados have been in braving the Coney wedge including Harv who reckoned it was 3ft but looked dire when I checked! ;)

Personally I've not been inspired lately but the wind looks like it's finally dropping so might get an hour in later...

I'm off to Cornwall for a week soon so hoping to score some decent surf down there but would prefer a mix of highs and lows or camping will be very soggy indeed!

Other news...the ASP Brazil comp finished in controversy with the usual aussie suspects claiming foul play as Taj failed to win again.

Meanwhile in Peru, our very own local grom - Max Tucker is in the Quiksilver World Junior Comp! so we all wish him well for that. He came 2nd in his heat the other night and has one last do or die chance to surf according to his dad, Simon.

Thursday 12 May 2011

Grinders

Not a lot of surf around currently and with a dying swell and strong sw winds it's hardly worth checking as high pressure edges closer.

But all is not lost!

Local surfer George Schofield has a new underwear business in the pipeline (no pun intended) so check out some Grinders and help him fund a new surfboard ;)

Friday 6 May 2011

2 in 24

Thursday night
1.2m
9-10 seconds, underlying period = 5 seconds
light SE

Friday dawnie:
1.5m, 8-9 seconds, underlying period = 5-6 seconds
Moderate SSE


Not a bad 24 hrs really. Finished early yesterday evening so managed to get in the water by 5.15pm along with Doc, Grant and Sven. Quiet to begin with but the summer student hoards soon descended...God I hate summer surfers. They do my bleedin' head in!

Sat there like driftwood, wasting waves, paddling and pulling back @ the last minute and looking all sulky in their winter suits with hoods and gloves on? LOL

The waves on paper should have been epic with an 10 sec period but the swell was never much over 1.2m and the big tides and subsequent rip made it hard work trying to find a good one and when they came, they just tended to back off unless you were inside.

I left feeling a bit deflated but thinking back, I did have some pretty good rides just not as many as I was expecting.

Steve Beach @ Rest Bay by Claire Beach:


Grant seemed to be in the thick of it, with nice rights being magnetically attracted to him so we moved over onto his peak ;)

Doc snagged some nice long rights on his 'nugget' so was a happy chappy and it's his 47th birthday today so happy birthday to him! He had a lie in today to open up his pressies so I'll let him off missing the dawnie.

I had a few nice rights last night, one in particular stands out, prob nudging 4ft and nice and clean on the face, it took a bit of work after a fast take-off to get going but after a lip bash and a cutback I found myself tucking into a hollow end section and coming out which is always a nice surprise :)

Harv turned up later but we'd had our fill by then and I knew I'd be up early hoping for bigger and better.

I got Rattz and Aran out of bed today - separate beds I think? and met them at 6am at the usual spot.

Aran was high on a McDonalds breakfast and staggered off into the woods to do what bears do, so we walked on and saw him in the water later.

Emma C @ Rest Bay by Claire Beach:


The waves were bigger but the period smaller....damn it Huey! If he's just leave things alone it would have been okay but he always has to meddle. Swell up, wave period down. Hmmmmm

Nevertheless the waves were a good 4ft on sets and punchy but again a bit sluggish after take-off as the big tides pushed in.

Towards high it became more enjoyable and I snagged a few good sized rights which made it worthwhile but again I've come away thinking it should have been better. Might have to try Rest Bay instead tomorrow as I hear it's been cranking over there!

The weekend looks really good as does Monday and possibly Tues with offshore winds and plenty of swell about so enjoy!

Thursday 5 May 2011

Onion ahoy

It may not be a winter onion sitting off the west coast but it's not too bad for May - a 988 last time I checked and with a blocking high to the east, we should be in for a good run with the winds too.

The current forecast is for SSE winds and plenty of swell over the next 5 days peaking on Monday.

Currently Rest Bay is clean with plenty of lines and around 2-3ft on the dropping tide. tides are pretty big at the moment, 9.5m+

I think I'll be going for a dip later, board in van ready for action.

Tuesday 3 May 2011

Sunny skies

Well it's been the sunniest, driest March and April since 1950 something which never bodes well for surf but the Easter Monday and following Tuesday did deliver some ice waves.

Monday although small, served up punchy, fast bowling peaks around 2-3ft and despite still being drunk from the night before, I surfed my socks off and had some really nice rides????! I'm normally badly affected by 'beer legs' but not this time!

I'm not sure if the alcohol relaxed me but I felt like I was on fire and flowing nicely LOL even busting a small air on an inside ramp - fins popped right out and I remember thinking, "this feels a bit funny" before landing on the foam and carrying on, so I'm going to start drinking more from now on before each surf! ;)

After a good 2.5hrs in, I'd sobered up and felt an absolute wreck on the long walk home...I returned on Tues as the wave period was still high, around 14 secs but was expecting it to have dropped off.

Not on your nelly, it had actually picked up and was now 3-4ft, slightly chopped up from a NE wind but a lot quieter too.

I bumped into Steve Beach and Harv out back and we shared a few waves in the sun. In hindsight I should have hit Gower reefs as they would have been classic but I was just too damn tired so stayed local and had a few nice rides.

The waves cleaned up as the tide went over high and the far left was throwing up some lovely rights with some shoulder high sets. I didn't want to go in but my arms had given up and I was starting to get grumpy as it became more crowded so called it a day.

There's been nothing since buy I've been busy in the garden and it looks like we're set for some half decent surf later on this week....