Thursday 1 December
Yesterday we had a lovely groundswell, 2.7m and 10 seconds with light WNW winds so I knew the point would be pumping.
The tide wasn't great, a little too low but I had a pass and enough time to squeeze into a few waves before work.
I decided to don my 6mm full winter suit and boy was it hard work! It felt heavy just throwing it into my wetsuit bucket but once water was added felt like I had a monkey on my back ;)
With only 3 of us in it looked promising but as the tide pushed the crowds arrived and it wasn't long before the inevitable drop ins began...
On my third wave I paddled right (as everyone does) to catch a nice wave coming through, took the drop and rode along the line only to be dropped in on by the self appointed 'enforcer' @ the point as I neared the flatter shoulder section.
I congratulated him on an "excellent drop in" to which he replied it was my fault as I shouldn't have paddled past him to catch a wave after I'd just ridden one? Was this guy for real?! Sadly, yes.
I hadn't caught anything worthwhile but but let's not let the facts get in the way. Isn't this what you do when surfing, paddle towards the curl and if no-one spots a rogue wave, then even better!
He'd only just arrived, and in my book, you don't paddle out and expect to take an automatic spot in the line up but there we go. We clearly read different books.
Another 'good' local surfer then piped up to defuse the situation (backing up his compadre) which was ironic seeing as HE had just paddled over from Coney straight into the inside slot and started catching waves.
You can't have it both ways, so which is it, eh?
I put it down to blinkered localism at its very finest and a lack of surf travel. You go to Burleigh or Kirra or any other good point break in the world and the rules are the same and this is Porthcawl on a quiet day in winter!
In my book, a blatant drop in (from the safety of a nice fat shoulder), just highlights the fact that you're a weak surfer.
Point made? Big ******** deal! And all this from someone who is always moaning about overcrowding and drop ins. Isn't it ironic.
My next three waves were all 'shared' as guts joined us and what could have been a really nice surf turned a bit sour in my mind.
Nevertheless I managed to snag 3 lovely long waves and rode my last one to shore as work beckoned. Next time I won't be taking prisoners, the imaginary rule book will be set alight.
Friday 2 December
This morning the swell had halved but the period jumped to 12 secs and the wind was very light nw.
The windscreen was iced over but at least the sea felt warm compared to the outside air temps but I did time my paddle out and kept my head dry for a while :)
I paddled out at rest bay to 3ft and clean, a little choppy in places due to the rip but a totally different vibe. People having fun, chatting and enjoy the blue skies and sunshine. Emma was way out the back enjoying her new longboard whilst milesy, adrian and I enjoyed the inside bowls.
I squeezed an hour in and caught one or two nice waves including one nice big hollow bowl on my backhand that got a couple of hoots and perhaps I should've pulled in but now we'll never know!
Still no hood or gloves on and I wore my autumn suit avec thermal rashie today for better paddle speed.
