Sunday morning worship

There were waves all weekend for the chosen few. Saturday didn't really serve up much. Fin and I went for a surf check first thing and Coney was a foot and clean.

We took a look at Rest Bay later as the tide dropped back to watch Rattz in action but there wasn't much surf on offer, the odd 2-3ft crumbly wave but the sea looked very rippy sand the period low. Still it was a wave but my back was still giving me gip so I decided to hold off.

Sunday was much more like it, a light ENE first thing so I grabbed my new wetsuit and ventured down to ledges. I wasn't alone but a friendly crew out back. Considering the size and quality of swell I was amazed at how quiet it was with only a handful of surfer's vans parked up.

Wind: light ENE
Swell: 1.65m
Wave period: 8.2 seconds, 265 degrees
Water temp: 12.6C

I could tell from my slow jog down, that my back wasn't right, jarring with each step but I paddled out anyway.

The new wetsuit is a snug fit so only intensified the pain in my back but I caught around 10 waves.

The wave is fast, sucky and barrelling with a big drop so not ideally suited to an old man with a painful back but I did my best. It was a good 3-4ft and a lovely shape. A guy on a SUP was stood on the beach contemplating the paddle out and did eventually get out. I saw him ride a few on the shoulder and have one spectacularly good slap from the lip :)

Most of my rides left consisted od pig dog crouching takeoffs, late and then standing further along the face. I had a couple of nice rides and a few short, fast rights but I wasn't comfortable.

When I surf I like to give it all or nothing and it's a bit soul destroying surfing with the handbrake on so paddled in after 30 mins. I think it's going to take another couple of weeks before I'm surf fit again :(

Then a longboarder arrived along with a slightly clueless shortboarder and 3 spongers. Time to go!

I paddled into a medium sized left, took off, saw the kooky shortboarder paddling the wrong way towards me and ended up roding straight over his boots on my way down the line. What a twonk!
Lovely morning though and not too cold, still surfing without a hood which is nice. As I walked back, the tide was dropping and lots of barreling peaks began to appear so I'm sure plenty of waves were ridden later!