Period: 14 seconds
Tide: Nearly low, small tides though
Wind: Hardly a breath but technically NE
At the beach: 3ft+ hollow peaks
What a treat we had today after a weekend of big and blustery; yet generally shitty surf.
The wind had died over night and I woke to a light NE breeze, barely moving the flags over Rest Bay. I processed Jnr into nursery double time today and drove down for a look at 7.50am. There were 4 in already - including Rattz and Harv who were on it at first light.
I believe they must have both wet the bed today as they're never normally in that early!
Clean 3ft+ peaks were barrelling their little heads off left and right all the way down the beach and I had my soaking suit on it about 10 seconds with barely a groan!
With the tide nearly low, you know it's going to be good when it's like this and it didn't disappoint.
I paddled out in time to see Harv taking a nice left and then got my first flush as a large set exploded repeatedly on my head - at least it had some power!
My first wave was a nice clean fast left, too fast in fact. I'd have to be up quicker and take a higher line on the next one.
Pic on porthcawlsurf today. Check out those lines!
The lefts continued to fire. Its hard to do it justice when it looks as nice as it did, not a drop out of place, a nice sunrise, no wind...you get the idea.
My next few were better or rather I was better as I was up quicker, made the initial section and found some lovely clean walls through to the inside but I wanted a right.
I told Harv I had to go in 5 mins for work so he'd leave me a set wave but he was already inside when it came ;)
A lovely 3-4ft right reared it's head and I didn't need an invitation!
I took off late, getting a nice steep drop and half expected a gaping tube but I was a millisecond too slow so bottomed turned hard and blasted a lovely clean shoulder with a kind of otl/cutback combo just in time to see a grom paddling out with a look of sheer terror in his eyes, as I skirted around him and carried on riding :)
Why people don't move is beyond me but there we go...you're meant to get out of the way of the incoming surfer.
Pic taken as I left for work - doesn't do it justice:
Wow, I was buzzing after that one and it probably made me even more annoying out back than usual as I was positively frothing at the mouth after that! ;)
The rip kicked in but not before I'd stoked into a similar sized left. Not expecting to make the drop, I was rewarded with a nice high line and warp speed which drove me right around the fast close-out section and onto a lovely clean wall! More hooting followed!
I saw Harv catching another nice right, not quite getting barrelled as the wave shut down just as he kicked out.
Ratter (ahem) was on his new 6'6 Byrne and lack of surf time was showing. I did see him catch one wave but he did his classic 'rolly polly' off the nose on take off gaining him a double thumbs up from me ;)
He did get it into a bit more later apparently but he was at cove and I was right down the other end by then.
The rip kicked in but I decided to fight it today as time was short and I wanted the best peaks for my last 30 mins or so. Rattz and Harv went with it.
So I literally had it to myself by 9am.
My heart was pounding like mad in my ears as I paddled out once more, just in time to spot a lovely set coming my way. I sat still and watched as 3 seagulls, glided in formation along a pristine, sun lit wall right in front of me - absolutely beautiful. No other sound audible apart from my heart beat!
It went hollower after that so I did my very best to get slotted which is a bad habit of mine anyway. I pulled in and stalled myself into some ridiculous body contortions but eventually made it inside one or two. One, I didn't make it out of probably offered me my best view of the day.
As I stalled and tucked under the lip, I was greeted with a perfect cylindrical tube with the sun shining right through it - proper 'surfermag' cover shot of a view inside the barrel.
Time stood still and then splat, it shut down on me! but it was a magnificent sight and made the session for me.
I caught a few more and decided it was time to go. As my feet hit the sand I was overcome with that warm, stoked feeling - (no I hadn't wet myself!), but was grinning like a fool as I walked back, marvelling at the quality of waves I was leaving behind...
High pressure on the horizon so that might be my last surf for a while but I hope not.
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