Apologies I've either been injured or it's be flat of late so not blogged in a while but I managed a couple of surfs last week - I say surfs, they were more like paddles.
Monday was okay from what I remember, small, 1-2ft but super clean and then tiny on Tues when I dragged Steve Beach out of his lair for a paddle @ sker but by the time he arrived it had dropped to a weak 1 ft so we weren't in for long!
I prob should have hit Gower as it would have been classic at a certain outer reef break but I couldn't find anyone to come with me so decided to save it for another time.
The rest of my week off was spent painting the garage...but at least the sun was out and I basked in the balmy 17 degrees ;)
A weak low pushed in over the weekend and we all got very excited. I had a quick look on saturday as I was passing and spotted lines and a 2ft wave with a few longboarders on it.
Stunned I pegged it home to grab my stuff, drove back and ran down to find it was virtually flat?! Undeterred I paddled out and tried to ride a few stupidly shallow ones over the reef but ended up going for a paddle instead.
Up early on sunday to watch the 1ft wave on the cam gradually build @ Rest Bay so I hit my local spot early.
Not expecting much I found a nice fun 2ft wave with only 3 guys in and spent the next 2 hours chasing everything that came my way; surfing myself into the ground.
I scored a couple of cheeky head dips for my troubles and by 11.30am was well and truly done. The crowd had descended, including the annoying SUP'r hogging everything! so I was happy to call it a day.
I hit Rest with the family later and was surprised to see the surf had picked up. It looks ok today too and with the clocks springing forwards, we can all enjoy after work surfs from now on :)
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