I had arranged to meet up with Aran in the morning for a pre work surf but my gut was telling to hang on so I did. Aran made do with 1-2ft on the drop and for him to say it was shit really puts it into perspective! ;)
The wave period was fluctuating between 15 and 18 seconds but the wave buoys were still only registering a couple of feet...
Luckily my gamble paid off and I finished early to squeeze in a quick hour before dad duties commenced.
I got down to Rest Bay just as the tide turned and passed two grinning surfers who'd been over surfing over by golf for the last 3 hours. I stood and watched, weighing up my options - main beach, over the reef a bit or walk on a bit. I walked on...
A guy took off on a lovely A frame peak and proceeded to milk it for all it was worth trough to the inside, hitting lips and nailing some nice cutbacks and my walk rapidly turned into a run!
Lovely clean lines rolled through and 3 guys sat, spread out on a couple of lovely looking peaks breaking to the left of the ledges.
My first wave was a corker, a long fast right taking me a long way inside with speed and power - the best wave I'd ridden in months. So nice to have something bigger than 2ft which is all we've been getting lately.
The rip was a mare and dragging me left and I was constantly aware of how little time I had and reminding myself not to take any of the lefts even though they were so perfect as I didn't want to waste time paddling back!
The wind remained light offshore, barely a breath though and I picked off a few more long rights, racing the face and occasionally busting into the lip before it shut down. Great fun but I could have done with a faster board!
I paddled in not long after it turned and the waves dropped in size which was a good way to end it. My fitness is still poor so I'm off swimming now!
It won't be long before we can shed the old winter rubber though and the water is warming up nicely, currently nudging 8 deg C.
No comments:
Post a Comment