1.2m
9-10 seconds, underlying period = 5 seconds
light SE
Friday dawnie:
1.5m, 8-9 seconds, underlying period = 5-6 seconds
Moderate SSE
Not a bad 24 hrs really. Finished early yesterday evening so managed to get in the water by 5.15pm along with Doc, Grant and Sven. Quiet to begin with but the summer student hoards soon descended...God I hate summer surfers. They do my bleedin' head in!
Sat there like driftwood, wasting waves, paddling and pulling back @ the last minute and looking all sulky in their winter suits with hoods and gloves on? LOL
The waves on paper should have been epic with an 10 sec period but the swell was never much over 1.2m and the big tides and subsequent rip made it hard work trying to find a good one and when they came, they just tended to back off unless you were inside.
I left feeling a bit deflated but thinking back, I did have some pretty good rides just not as many as I was expecting.
Steve Beach @ Rest Bay by Claire Beach:
Grant seemed to be in the thick of it, with nice rights being magnetically attracted to him so we moved over onto his peak ;)
Doc snagged some nice long rights on his 'nugget' so was a happy chappy and it's his 47th birthday today so happy birthday to him! He had a lie in today to open up his pressies so I'll let him off missing the dawnie.
I had a few nice rights last night, one in particular stands out, prob nudging 4ft and nice and clean on the face, it took a bit of work after a fast take-off to get going but after a lip bash and a cutback I found myself tucking into a hollow end section and coming out which is always a nice surprise :)
Harv turned up later but we'd had our fill by then and I knew I'd be up early hoping for bigger and better.
I got Rattz and Aran out of bed today - separate beds I think? and met them at 6am at the usual spot.
Aran was high on a McDonalds breakfast and staggered off into the woods to do what bears do, so we walked on and saw him in the water later.
Emma C @ Rest Bay by Claire Beach:
The waves were bigger but the period smaller....damn it Huey! If he's just leave things alone it would have been okay but he always has to meddle. Swell up, wave period down. Hmmmmm
Nevertheless the waves were a good 4ft on sets and punchy but again a bit sluggish after take-off as the big tides pushed in.
Towards high it became more enjoyable and I snagged a few good sized rights which made it worthwhile but again I've come away thinking it should have been better. Might have to try Rest Bay instead tomorrow as I hear it's been cranking over there!
The weekend looks really good as does Monday and possibly Tues with offshore winds and plenty of swell about so enjoy!
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