One last ride before Gull jnr arrives in late November....
I've been getting bored with the crap surf we've been having all summer long in Wales so decided action was required.
Pass secured I message by mate in Derry to see if we could sync up our time off from work with a decent weather chart and within 3 days it had all come together!
I'm hopping on a sleazy jet flight from Bristol to Belfast to hook up with my Oirish surfing crew and find some Donegal gold at the end of a soggy rainbow.
My new board is virtually unused so I'm really looking forward to putting it through its paces in what will be some pretty epic surf - probably the best I've had all year.
A nice onion shaped, 980 is beautifully lined up for the north coast, moving through on Saturday and sitting on top of us right through to Monday so it's going to be absolutely cranking with sw veering w winds meaning offshore winds at certain spots :)
My surf guide MP has lined up 3 x regional classics for me, one of which I've surfed before - a fearsome rivermouth break with grinding left hand barrels that tube for about quarter of a mile!
It has to be seen to be believed and involves a nice rock jump paddle out int a deep channel with a forboding rip but the exit is fun at low tide walking back across the estuary.
It is completely beserk, more so when you see its location on a map. There is no way on earth that it could ever have surf? The swell has to wrap at some acute angles at least twice just to get anywhere near it - but it does!
Last time I surfed it, I was on a borrowed, delaminated surf tech thrustery thing and felt completely under gunned and twitchy. It's never a nice feeling paddlign out in serious waves on aboard you've never ridden before which feels too short and light for you.
I still had great fun and scored some nice waves but was never particularly relaxed in solid 6-8ft freight train tubes. You could have comfortably driven a mini through some of them - wide open pits of doom.
The other spot on the north coast is somewhere I've visited before but never seen a rideable wave so I'm looking forward to that, it's another left point/reef onto sand.
It's always strange seeing a spot completely flat and trying to imagine the set up, where you sit, where the wave breaks, how long the ride is, is it hollow, where are the rocks?
And finally some ghastly wedge that goes double overhead with another sketchy jump off the end of a pier. All fun and games!
The forecast is riduculous, 5.5m @ 12 seconds on Monday so at least we won't be driving around all day looking for surf. It will be a matter of finding something small enough to ride.
I arrive on Saturday morning at 8:40am so should hopefully be stroking into some serious waves by 10am :)
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