Swell: 3-4ft+, cleanish but onshore and not much shape initially.
Tide: Big tides, 10m+ with HT around 8am
Winds: Moderate SW
Well I finally got into something bigger than 3ft today - Just!
The still air and blue skiesat 5am got my big toe wiggling in anticipation but a quick view of the Rest Bay cam put some doubt into my head...13kts onshore.
Oh well I was up anyway...and had arranged to meet werg, hooper and rattz at our usual.
The boys were already on it when I arrived and it looked much better than I'd expected, 3-4ft+ and clean on the face but quite windy and no definable lines.
The tide was racing in and the big tides meant there was plenty of water moving around out back.
Some nice late drops were on offer but it was tough trying to snag a really good one until about an hour before HT.
I had 2 nice long rights, connecting up at high speed all the way through to the inside but I was steering clear of manoeuvres and just trying to hang on!
Tried my 'Donavon' soul arch BT on one crumbly one, much to johnny Rainbow's amusement and the craic was high in the water today! :)
The inside cleaned up nicely and fast bowly rights and lefts pushed through, often reforming from larger set waves breaking out back.
A re-enactment of our wave in:
The death defying pebble bank was in full swing so we knew the exit would be fun as it involves riding a wave in as far as you dare - jumping off quickly into the air, landing and then running full pelt up a 10 ft bank of large moving pebbles.
These then suck you back downwards under foot and leave you stranded in No Man's Land ready for the next wave behind to crucify you.
No fatalities today although Hooper did take off way too late on one, not seeing the pebbles until he was on his feet leaving himself a millisecond to bail and take the pain.
I'm feeling warm, tired and have blocked sinuses from one too may face plants!
I've not gotten used to single fin surfing just yet...I think it will take a few more surfs before I find my mojo properly on my OP.
Gull
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