Had a great little session today accompanied by ratter. We met up at 6.30am and paddled out under a moonlit sky. If it hadn't been for the 3-4ft hollow shorey then it might have been romantic! ;0
John taking off followed by me on a right.
We paddled over to the point where we'd be surfing and waited...Glassy but not quite firing, some lovely waves were still coming through in the 3-4ft region. The big tides had pushed the surf off the reef altogether so it took a while to start working properly.
As it got lighter we were joined by one other and we enjoyed fairly glassy conditions for the next hour. The waves began to improve and the crowd grew but there was a good vibe out back and plenty to go round. I fell off two nice barrels, not quite exiting but good fun all the same and I was keen to see how the cam looked when mounted on the the front.
I saw JT and 'Gathy' sat out in the channel on their planks picking off the wide sets whilst the rest of us fought it out on the peak. Ratter had a nice little head dip earlier on but seemed to lose his way and opted for the inside slot away from all the jostling.
Heaven
I had some lovely rides today, really fast, long rights that had everything a surfer needs - speed, steep sections, bashable bits and tubey sections.
My last wave was lovely as I pulled into a nice keg, had a split second to realise I was fully engulfed and managed to squeak out the side door as it shut down around my ears - time to go in!
I got to shore and threw up after swallowing some sea water but was absolutely buzzing after a really good 2 hrs of surfing. Well and truly stoked!
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