Pic by Adie from Sunday in West Wales:
Crowds have also been a factor as we're not blessed with a huge number of spots that are sheltered and can hold surf in strong SW winds.
This pic was posted on the OTL forum earlier and for anyone that knows this spot which is heavy at the best of times..you know not to surf here when it looks like this!
The barometer has been showing 993 recently
I did a dawnie on Saturday as the winds were offshore. Met up with Doc, Harv, Johhny Rainbow and Werg at first light.
It was a horrible, overcast (almost dark) day at times with a stiff SE wind so I was extra glad my new winter wetsuit boots arrived on Friday afternoon :)
Winter boots seem to sell out earlier every year. I'd been putting it off despite seeing a lot of people in hoods, gloves and winter boots but my summer reef slippers aren't comfortable any more as sea temps dip to around 13 degrees C.
As we arrived at the beach we were greeted with nice fast hollow 4-5ft surf and I was feeling pretty excited about the session.
Mounted the camer on the front again and filmed some of the boys getting some.
Doc and Harv had a few nice ones but didn't see the other fellas getting much although Werg was spending a lot of time inside paddling... so perhaps he was snagging some afterall!
Johhny was 'rusty' apparently - Well it is a week since his last surf! ;)
I didn't have a great surf. Caught some nice ones but nothing to write home about as far as length of ride goes.
Sadly, the surf wasn't as good as conditions initially made them out to be. Despite there being some lovely waves on offer, they were a bugger to catch mainly due to the wind blowing us off the peak, plus the rip and a fairly big tide.
Nevertheless we all snagged some and I had some nice wipe outs too, trying to go that little bit too late in the lip...
Doc on a nice right hander on 'big red':
The peaks were coming out of deep water and jacking up very quickly which meant positioning was very tricky. You were either right on it or it was right on you!
Also bumped in Aran who was out surfing on a new 'Santa Cruz' stick despite the fact that his wife only gave birth to their daughter, last week! LOL
I thought I was doing well in getting wet, just 2 weeks after Fin was born but he's set a new precedent here!
Ratter is also a new dad! 'Archy Evans' arrived last Thursday :) but I think it will be a little while before we see Ratter in the water.
Well done to him and wife Nicky though, it wasn't an easy birth but they're through the worst of it now :)
More storms, floods and no doubt rain on the way for Wales...Winter is well and truly here!
Gull
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