Monday 23 August 2010

Finally...

We have something in the Atlantic that is getting me excited!

After a disappointing surf on Friday evening in what can only be described as "howling onshore hell" I tried again early on Saturday and was rewarded with empty three foot peaks and just three of us in :)

It wasn't particularly punishing but I'm still trying to find some fitness after a virus and 4-5 week long flat spell.

Good news on the fins front though. I test drove the Mayhems on Friday and found them to be incredibly stiff!

I shouldn't have used the 5 fin set up in small, onshore conditions basically but it did prove one thing - they have tons of hold so will come in handy for bigger waves which is why I got them!

At times it felt as if there was an invisible arm pushing/holding me back as I tried to get down the wave face and generate some speed on the face.It was a very strange sensation but not ideal test conditions tbh.

My surf compadre that night - Rhys, fresh back from France was making the most of it though and catching three waves to my one. My fitness was dire and I felt like I'd been in three hrs after an hour.

The wind was causing the waves to slap me repeatedly in the face as I paddled out and fought the white water and it was just one of the sessions where you half wish you'd not bothered.

NOAA chart for Thursday lunchtime:


I took out the rear trailer on Saturday in preparation for more smaller waves and rode it as a quad. It made a huge difference and although there was plenty of hold, the board felt fast and responsive and I managed a few off the lips on some of the set waves.

Harv was all over it on his sponge and snagged some nice rights when he first got in. I even saw him attempt a head stand spin at one point although this is commonly known as a wipe-out but it looked half decent!

The tide dropped back and with it went the waves but there were still some fun looking small peaks to keep the longboarders content

Can't wait to try them out this week.For any surfers who've been asleep we're in for a treat soon as a tropical storm is heading our way with nicely packed isobars:



The tides look pretty good for morning surfs too, so fingers crossed that the winds have read the script.

Small, clean lines again today at Rest Bay and hardly any wind but just a bit small to bother with over high tide.

At the moment Weds & Thurs look like the best days but you never know...it might just start to show for Tues night and I've got Friday off as the winds swing WNW :)

Bank Holiday weekend is approaching, so we might just have some left overs too!

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