Josh redeems himself by sneaking into the belly of a nice right. Image by Mark Patterson:
This little spot isn't renound for it's surf but on a solid swell and offshore winds - it was firing!
It reminded me a lot of freshwater east - my old local haunt in Pembs. A beach break with attitude serving up nice hollow waves in shallow, knee height water.
The waves were howling offshore and 2-3ft and clean with plenty of hollow close-outs on offer. Some however held up and allowed Josh and I to squeak in and out of one or two.
Mark had gone off road in the Landrover so chauffeured us along the beach to our chosen peak and offered to take pics (once I'd shamed him into it). ;)
As the tide pushed in, the waves grew. I paddled down to a right I'd first spotted when we surf checked it earlier, but was too lazy/tired to paddle down for!
Bottom turning on a nice right. Image by Mark Patterson:
After about an hour, I'd grown tired of watching a perfect right unload all the way down the beach, throwing the lip over as it went, so decided to paddle down give it a go. It was worth it!
I was a bit knackered after the earlier 3hr session but was determined to get inside at least one and exit.
The first few came through and were a perfect bowl shape, allowing for a nice easy take off, followed by a hollow lip which I was trying to get to grips with.
The board I was on was fine for pulling in on but I was finding it hard to lay down any manoeuvres on so just stuck to bottom turning and trying to get covered up whenever possible.
I took off a little late on a 3-4ft right, dropped down and squeaked a turn in, just as the lip threw over in front of me.
It literally went into slo-mo for me and felt like I had all the time in the world yet was over in a split second. No matter how many times you get under that lip, even if it's just your head, it feels special.
Pulling in. Image by Mark Patterson:
Sticking my hand into the wave, I stalled just long enough to get in and out before kicking out into a close out sandy haze.
Mark managed to capture the moment just before and just after but I had the view from inside and was howling like a howler monkey after that one :)
Josh was styling on his quad and for a big guy, did well - pulling into some nice cover ups. He's been watching far too many retro surf movies me thinks! ;)
After an hour or two we called it a day. I'd had a good 4 hrs+ of surf that day and was well and truly done.
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