Friday 8 April 2011

3 in 3

Thursday night @ Rest Bay:

Waves: 1.2 m
Period: 10.8 seconds
Winds:Light SE
Tides: 2 hours before high

It's been a fun week for surf - three surfs in three days can't be bad and I actually feel paddle fit at least :)

After my paddleathon on Weds night I opted for Rest Bay last night and bumped into 'the plough' as I parked up. I'd not seen him in ages and it turns out he's still living in Bristol but now working at a male topless waiter in some dodgy bar in Barry?! I bet his parents don't know...

We wandered down to surf an average looking Rest Bay around 6pm and ended up finding some extremely enjoyable walls to bash. Despite the wind which eventually dropped and swng from light onshore to light offshore, the wave faces were actually pretty glassy.

The rip was as annoying as ever but I did my best to take tactical lefts and try to stay as close to golf as possible.

Saw a few of the WCSC crew out - Brad, Tom Blythe, Mat Hapgood, Steve Horn etc and we all had a good craic in fun surf.

Although a bit crumbly at times, the waves were quite fast on the inside bowls and allowed for a few manoeuvres to be unleashed. My first wave was a late head high left on which a koo proceeded to drop in, fall off and narrowly miss decapitating me.

I had a few words, he asked if I was okay and then proceeded to hoot like a maniac as he paddled off for more, clearly stoked at catching a wave and getting pummelled. Welcome to Rest - LOL

The only fly in the ointment was a sponger on my last wave who not only dropped in but turned around to look at me as I called him off and carried on going until I practically speared him up the ass! ;) cheeky so and so...

But my first 3 waves were better than anything I'd had in 2.5hrs on Weds night so I left the water a happy man!

Friday morning and stoked grandad salutes the surf!


Wave Height :1.1 m
Wave Period: 11 seconds
Winds: Light SE
Tides: 2 hours before high

Still keen for more I did the early today and donned my Spring suit with no gloves or good for the first time. A bit of a gamble but it paid off nicely although I was trying to avoid duckdiving at all costs on the paddle out!

I can't tell you how glad I am to have finally broken off the winter shackles of a 6mm suit, hood and mitts. I felt like a man reborn today and seemed to be popping up quicker too!

Saw rattz and aran, malc and gitto out the back and enjoyed a few fun sized 2-3ft and clean.

The sun was shining and a light offshore made it really nice. Nothing huge but some fun drops occasionally and a few nice rights to be had. High pressure coming into play now so doubt I'll get wet tomorrow but never say never!

Kev, Larry and James scored a nice Gower reef on Thursday at 6ft and had a great time by all accounts with Kev having one spectacular crowd pleasing wipeout. Great stuff! :)

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