Mixed bag of late. Friday evening was okay for a quick dip @ coney...yes coney. I snagged one or two okay rides but my best was probably a left which held up long enough to whack the lip a couple of times despite some kook paddling right across me dressed in a rather severe looking helmet - and no it wasn't Hazel! This was a bloke.
My next session was on the Saturday at Rest Bay. The sun was blazing and although onshore, the wave faces looked clean. I bumped into Agger son the walk down so we paddled out together near the golf course.
You could see it was a hefty swell by the number of surfers actually out the back - very few! Most were being wshed up on the inside amongst the mountains of white water.
I joked to Aggers that I'd come back and find him in half an hour but he had the last laugh! He set off first and I followed after a quick warm up. What followed was a shoulder burning 20 min endurance as I battled wave after wave of white water smashing down on me, every time I mistakenly thought I'd made some progress!
There was no out the back, just different areas of breaking wave which got quite frustrating as I couldn't actually see where I was paddling to - no end point!
I almost felt like giving up and had aggers not made it, prob would have gone in and tried further down but I persevered and eventually found my spot in the lineup. There weren't many faces, prob only 6 or 7 guys out there and I bumped into Tristan, Greg Hill and Rhino.
The waves were qute chunky, not massive ( 4ft+ on sets) but had plenty of underlying power and I had a few nice big drops, just about hanging on and making something of a ride out of them before the tide got too full. Great fun though and the biggest I've been out in in ages so well worth it.
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