Thursday 7 April 2011

A river runs through it

Waves: 1.3m
Period: 13.7 secs
Wind: Light SSE

That's how the rip felt last night @ sker!

Still it was a lovely evening and I shared the waves with only one other surfer for a while before the after work crowd turned up. The waves ranged from 3-4ft with shifting peaks, the odd rogue set and lots of pristine waves on offer but always one step ahead of gull!

The first few waves were nice. Fast, punchy bowling rights. Short rides but steep jacking take offs made for plenty of fun drops.

Then we had some glass as the waves almost went oily for a time, then back to a bit more chop but clean waves on the face and so it went on getting bigger, dropping off a bit as the tide pushed in.

I felt like I was chasing ghosts but caught enough to keep me happy - just but came away feeling like I'd beeb slightly mugged again. I was determined to try and catch one big set wave before I left and by the time I did, it just turned into a nice drop and then deep water.

One guy paddled out, sat next to me and the took a lovely 4ft right which I'd been waiting for and paddling after for about 30 mins. He had a really nice long ride and that kind of summed up my session - always in the wrong spot. He didn't catch many more waves though but it's just down to luck some days.

The far left was cranking, with some lovely jacking lefts barreling through but again, tricky to catch and noone really nailed them. Ianto had a few nice drops though.

Will snagged a couple of nice barrels on his lid though and seemed to be enjoying himself. Aran & Chris lookde to be having a similar session to me, surrounded by perfect waves but paddling their socks off trying to ride one!

An odd session but nice to get in and I had a good 2.5 hrs paddling so I'm one step closer to getting my surf fitness back :)

The wind was on it a bit today with WSW first thing but it looks like it's cleaning up now on the dropping tide:

Waves: 1.3m
Period: 11.8
Wind: Light to moderate WSW

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