I've been away visiting the outlaws in Germany recently, typically I left the day before a new low pressure pushed in from the Atlantic, but from all accounts, I've missed nothing other than some smallish blown out onshore days.
11 days away from the ocean were certainly taking their toll though and I was frothing like David Frothelhoff by the time we got back late on Sunday night!
Despite Fin having a restless night, I'd set my alarm for 5 am determined to try out my new wetty which has been lying around the house (bone dry) now for some time.
A quick check of the wave buoy date on the i-phone (under the duvet) revealed a small swell but half decent wave period - decent enough for a desperate man anyway at 6 or 7 seconds. The winds were very light NW and a 1.4m swell was running so there should be something, surely?!
I loaded up the van and was at the beach a few minutes later, just in time to witness a spectacularly pink sunrise and told myself it was worth being tired just to see that.
I sat and watched the misformed waves peaking and tumbling about at mid tide Rest Bay and at one point almost bailed. Yes there was surf but the big tides weren't helping with the banks and I just couldn't see anything I'd get more than a drop out of.
The waves were clean on the face though and some even threw the lip out to form little barrels but it was tricky to see 'that wave' which is the one wave breaking that always inspires you, should you ever be in any doubt about paddling out.
"If in doubt paddle out"
I had a quick word with myself and got suited up. As I walked down into the shallows I realised how warm the sea felt and figured a paddle as good an option as any so with no other soul in sight I got my 40 yr old ass out the back, wondering if the beach was closed as there would normally be at least 10 surfers in by now?!
As I paddled out I was rewarded by a few powerful lumps on the head, only 2-3ft but that was enough to make me smile knowing that it could only improve over the next hour or so and it did.
One other guy - Ollie paddled out later and we shared some fun waves. No lengthy rides but one or two which held up long enough to throw in some turns and the odd close out lip bash.
It was just what I needed though and sometimes just one turn can be all the salt water therapy a man needs to start the day in the right way. You can keep your Special K!
I was back in time for a family breakfast, ticking all the right boxes and the new wetsuit was great, really warm, flexible and comfortable and should see me well into late November/December.
It looks like we're in for a few days of swell this week as a couple of weakish fronts move in for Thursday and then Saturday. The winds going offshore on Weds and Thursday so we might just get some fun, clean surf in this week...
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