Not a lot happening over the weekend as the period was a bit low and the winds never really played ball.
I went for a walk on sunday morning with Jnr in the backpack and my good lady by my side around 8.30am and after a pleasant couple of miles wandering in and out of sand dunes and getting both feet wet in the swampy sections, arrived at my local spot to find glorious sunshine and clean peeling surf.
Too small to shortboard but it would have been manageable on a longboard.
Friday was the day though! I left work @ reasonable o'clock and met up with Harv. The winds as predicted had swung SE( offshore) and there was a good swell out in the channel.
The tide was a bit on the low side but had turned and was on the way in. With big tides running, we knew it would push in quickly so were both looking forward to a decent session.
Arrived at the beach to find only 2 other guys in and 3-4ft cylindrical 'A frames' reeling off in either direction!
Harv got into it quickly and had caught about 10 waves before I finally clicked!
A recent cold had drained me of my super powers but I eventually stroked into a larger set wave. I was, as usual, a tad late...but had a nice big drop into a steaming, hollow right. The lip was throwing out nicely but I didn't have time to watch.
Harv told me after it was a pretty insane drop, so I'll have to take his word for it!
So I made the drop and went off down the line at speed. The lip ahead was going to shut down so I had 2 options - fly high, up and over the lip - 'superman stylee' or go straight.
Going straight is never an option! ;) So I flew up into the lip and launched. "I'm like a bird...SMASH!!!"
Crashing back down to earth I had that peculiar sense of weightlessness you get when your leash snaps...no tug on the old ankle - nada.
Damn! Fist wave and I'd snapped my bloody leash in classic, empty waves :(
The rip had been keeping us next to the rocks, constantly pulling us to the right so my 1st worry was that my board would be washed onto those. My second worry was that I would be washed in and over those as well! LOL
Head down I began my swim but was making slow progress against a strong rip. Every time I thought I was shallow enough to put my feet down I found myself in deep water.
A few more strokes and I was into a set, body surfing a close-out which proceeded to somersault me around and dumped me into the sand but at last I was on dry land.
My leash had been severed like a surgeon had been at it with a scalpel, a neat shear, right next to the swivel.
I decided it would take too long to go home and get a spare so remembered my boy scout knots and tied 3 in the leash, attaching it to my rail saver.
The tide pushed in and the waves got better as the wind eased off. Some good sized waves were coming through but I was leaving too many good ones as I didn't fancy another swim and the drops would have been a bit late.
Harv continued to be in the right place at the right time, picking off some really nice rides.
It's amazing what the lack of a leash can do to your confidence. You definitely think twice before going late in the lip.
I caught a few nice ones and everyone out there had some great rides. The sun was going down and it was time for one more wave. There were some perfect looking waves coming through but heavy old lips even on the smaller waves.
I even saw lots of waves spitting air out of the tubes which is always a good indicator of power.
I wanted to finish on a good one so waited...
A nice one came through so I paddled hard, made it, bottom turn, off the lip and then into a sharp cutty as the shoulder faded. Unfortunately I'd lost all speed and the board slid out from under me and was gone.
My knots had come undone and so had I!
I surfaced to see my board floating about 20 yards in front of me - waiting for me like some sort of pet to collect her.
But behind me the ocean was angry! A set was forming.
In the blink of an eye I'd decided to reach it at all costs before Huey did.
I stuck my head down and went into 'Thorpedo' mode, swimming hard.
As I got to within about six feet of it, a wave surge picked me up and I kind of swam/ body surfed onto it, grabbing both rails as the full impact of the wave landed on me.
Luckily I was far enough on to prone it in. Phew!
As I flew past, one of the lads paddling back out shouted out "Impressive!"
So I must have looked like Bruce Willis or some other action hero! LOL
Maybe Kevin Costner in 'Waterworld'? ;)
We walked away leaving the other 2 guys to enjoy the glassy conditions all to themselves.
Snapping my leash was actually a blessing as I'm off to Ireland later this week and don't fancy snapping on over there in bigger waves over reef.
I've now ordered a girls leash! Yes, a girl's 6ft comp 'Da Kine' leash.
In comparison, I found they were the same as the men's only £6 instead of £18!
It comes in a funky orange colour. I just hope the ankle strap isn't covered in flowers!!!
Hopefully I'll now start surfing like Layne Beachley!
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