16-17.8 seconds!
258 degrees
Gusty E wind
It's not every day we get epic surf but this weekend was pretty special. The Splashup was a big success in Porthcawl but sadly the waves on Saturday night didn't deliver for the night comp.
It went ahead anyway on foamies and by all accounts a huge cheer went up whenever anyone stood up!
Tom Anderson won but it was then held again in better waves on Sunday night but I'm not sure who won?
I got up early for a Sunday and was down at Sker for 7:30am. The sker buoy was only registering half a metre from a 3am update but the period was 16 seconds!
The carpark was already jostling so I knew it would be busy. Bumped into Mike and Kev so wondered down with them after laughing at a group of longboarders heading off towards the lake, clearly lost and wondering where the beach was!
We arrived to finda stiff E wind blowing, quite a rip running along the whole beach and clean 3ft surf. It looked okay and would only improve on the push. I stretched and paddled out after the boys hoping for a dry hair paddle-out. It wasn't to be!
A set came in and absolutely nailed me ;) It was a big bigger than 3ft and had the power of a small elephant behind it.
Snagged a few fast, steep rights to begin with but didn't get any good rides, just drops and explosions around my ears. Eventually things settled down on the push andin between long lulls of complete flatness we scored some nice waves.
Mike took a few good beatings as his old tired arms failed to dive under a few lips! ;) But it gave us a giggle as he was washed inside and then down the coast in the rip for a while but he kept plugging away and got back to us eventually!
The waves got better and bigger with each surge of the tide. We found a nice little 3-4ft bank for about 30 mins which served me up a little tube. I didn't exit but had a lovely almond view from inside as I tucked into a tiny barrel on a 3 footer.
The boys went home and I paddled over to the middle peak and bumped into harv, aggers & co. It was heaving down there, surfers galore but most not doing much, tea bagging and generally getting in the way. I wish they'd stay at Rest Bay!
Ianto pulled back from a nice right so I did a quick swivel and dropped into a sweet right, paddled back and another oe came my way - it was rude not to so I took a steep drop to find Harv had paddled inside of me and gone too! lol we rode the wave rail to spongey rail, had a laugh and then bailed under the close out behind us.
I caught one more sweet right, this time Aggers dropped in but after hollering like Tarzan for a few seconds he got the idea and jumped out of my way :)
A great session! The middle and left peaks were absoluttely thumping and it was a solid 5ft as I left.
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