Foul swell

Wave height: 3.5m
Winds: Strong W
Period: 9.8 seconds
Swell angle: 270 degrees

The ocean is angry today. There's real menace out there as a storm rages beneath blue skies. It's my favourite kind of weather with spray and foam flying across the road and I have to go and check the waves before hitting work, I just can't help it.

Rest Bay is a mess of white water with frothy mountains pounding the rocks but it's certainly not double overhead as reported my Magic Seaweed, the official forecasters for the Ripcurl ASP contest in Portugal...the mind boggles!


Cove was looking a good 4ft today, Shit Pipe was sheltered, around 2ft.


Esp looked around 3ft with a nice right coming off the rocky point to the right.


Coney was the cleanest option around 2ft+ and offshore on the dropping tide but no-one surfing.

We've another big hit coming on Wednesday as a 976 arrives fresh from the Atlantic and the winds are forecast to swing more SSE so we could be in for a treat.

The SPLASHUP (water sports & music event in Porthcawl) is on this Saturday and the forecast currently looks great with better weather and lighter winds so hopefully there will be enough swell for the night surfing contest at the Esp.

Wednesday's chart:

Forecast models show the current low weaken on Friday afternoon after hanging around all week but we start to see the arrival of a new 988 low arriving, so we might get a blip off that on Saturday night.

It should be a good night whatever happens. I'm itching for a surf. Yoga today so I'll see how the old back holds up...