Friday 30 October 2009

Head dips and flying fish

6am: 1.2m, 11.9 secs (dominant wave period), 264 direction, 30 spread, 14.95 deg c

On the ground: 2ft+ and hollow

One of the best things about having a new baby is that you don't need to rely on an alarm clock and their batteries never run out!

4am start today, my fault I suggested picking him up...

By 5.30am he's finally drifted off again and with my alarm set for 5.45am I opted for some brekkie and checked the data at Gull HQ.

0.9M, 11 sec period and a healthy SE wind. Worth a punt! Two to three and I'd be happy.

I had some garbled message on my mobile from Doc who'd got lost but with larry as co pilot anything is possible ;) Phoned him back to explain where he had to go and met up with those guys and Harv in his brand new shiny ladies car. But at least it's red

Pleasantries done we stomped off down that long dirty track to the beach. The tide was 2 hrs back and the swell not huge but nice and hollow.

We spent a few mins running in different directions towards peaks and then changing our minds. To an onlooker we must have looked like escaped loons from the local secure unit.

Eventually we settled on a bank and paddled out. The waves were 2ft+ and hollow but prone to shutting down but we made the best of it. Docs long board was getting caught out by the wind and he got blown off a few.

H-man seemed to be happy and reported a few pits and larry got off to a good start, working his lines.

The waves seemed to die down slightly but after about 45 mins, dropped back onto a decent bank and we were in business with consistent sucky 2ft+ waves barrelling their way down the line.

Harv allowed me to surf 'his peak' and drop in on him which was nice - and all free of charge! :)

We then shared lefts and rights as more and more sets came our way.

Larry meanwhile was in no man's land and was waiting for something - what we'll never know but he was a long way out whilst we surfed what was basically a hollow shorey.

He kept signalling out to sea with both arms out stretched over his head? I've a feeling he was having 'nam flashbacks...

Larry finally caught a decent wave and I even saw the old boy float a nice section. Doc stepped up next with a really nice long right followed by a nice little head dip.

The fish were on fine form today. We should haveve taken a net...

Doc had 1 kamikazee bass fly straight at his back, narrowly missing him. I had another jump straight out of the water in front of me on a wave. Very bizarre to see them in action so early in the day.

As he took off I screamed the call of the day 'head dip!!!!'as he shot past me,dodging the 1st lip before tucking in at the end and making a nice exit.

Harv was pulling in and making a few and kept kissing his guns after each ride?! LOL and I was doing my hardest to try and get some cover after Tuesday's warm up session.

My last wave I got right inside the pigs eye and lived to tell the tale :)

Paddling back out after a very average wave, I spotted a set jacking up.

I decided to take a punt and swivelled around and into it quickly. It could have gone either way.

As luck would have it, I dropped down into a nice sand sucking barrel, completely engulfed and exited out the side curtain before it unloaded onto the shore - My wave in!

I was tempted to paddle out for one more as the sets were getting bigger but remembered what a wise man once said: "Always finish on a good one"

If only I'd had my go pro camera, set up....oh well, maybe next time

Time for work.

I bade larry a fond farewell to which he replied "larry's not here! He didn't turn up today...!"

The legend grows.

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