Period: 17 seconds!
Wind: Light SE
Tides: HT 8.48am, 9.7m
The alarm buzzed at 6am and a quick glance out of the window showed a nice SE breeze. the period was up but the swell size was not as big as predicted.
I'd arranged to meet Doc and Larry @ our local, well mine now I've moved and after quickly trawling through the 10+ messages from everyone asking where I was going, what was I having for brekkie, had I had a dump yet? I made my way out of the house.
New wetty in hand and my faithful single fin pintail under my arm, off I went.
Drove the 5 mins to the car park and proceeded to wait... It was pitch black and I was beginning to wonder if anyone was going to show up?!
It turned out that Larry had the fear about wave size at x and Doc had opted to go silly @ Rhosilli instead? No comment.... XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The clock was ticking so at 7.05am precisely I bailed for spot No deux as I didn't fancy x at probably overhead size in the dark, on my own.
I have a son now so have to be a little bit more responsible! ;)
It only took me 15 mins to get to spot 2, a nice set up which I'd watched over the years but always found to be a bit slow and crowded so never bothered with.
Good to see the 'beach' family once again - they don't seem to sleep either!
I'd hoped for a solid 6ft swell but clean 3-4ft lines were stroking through (on sets) and the tide was racing in so I joined squid lips and his posse for a quick paddle out.
It took a while to get into it mainly due to a wave hogging SUP rider who snagged every single set wave that came our way. The 'ancients' would not have approved of his spirit! Aloha my arse..
Once he'd buggered off I got into a few. Nice long, right handers, head high and clean as a whistle. I even tried to pull under a few lips...
The sun poked through and suddenly the world felt alright! Surprisingly warm there.
I was expecting it to be colder a but it was nice and snug and a new 5/3 wetty helped.
I saw guys out in full winter suits, boots and gloves today?
No idea what that is all about as the sea is still a good 15 degs.
Lefts and rights were coming through but tending to shut down in the middle sections so you had to be quite choosy but I slid into a couple of beauties eventually.
Had a couple of hrs in before it was time for work. I only had around 5 good waves but surfing somewhere new can often provide a stoke that you just don't get from surfing classic waves at your local break.
As I left I discovered the exit was a little more challenging than I'd expected and the main peak had become very crowded indeedy!
Harv sent this one in of Rest Bay on the drop at 1pm today:
Looked lovely as I left so hopefully claire beach has some nice pics I can link to shortly.
Drop in's galore and plenty of kooks but a few good rides to be had.
I'll def go back (groan from the locals) but only on a bigger swell! (hurray)
Tomorrow is another day...
Gull
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