A bit more umph

Period: 11.8 secs, underlying period only 5 secs though
Swell: 0.7m
Tide: HT 4.44 am, 8.3m - surfed on the dropping tide
Wind: Very light SSW
At the beach: Fun 2ft and clean with plenty of lines.

Did the early again today. Waited till 5.30am to give the tide a chance to drop back a bit further and was in two minds whether to go or not as the buoy reading was a miserable 0.8m.

I checked the cam and spied nice clean lines with no wind but it's hard to judge scale with no other surfers in. Then I spotted one guy paddling out and could see the waves were a good 2ft breaking nicely so I was off!

Pic taken about an hour after I'd left by hugh @ www.porthcawlsurf.co.uk:


I got in down near the walkway and paddled out through the gap. First wave was a nice fast right hander, a quick otl and then a nice hack at the end with some spray - a nice start :)

Much better than anything I surfed yesterday morning so things could only get better! Apparently it was nice last night though with reports of 3-4ft coming in. C'est la vie...I was busy cleaning a washing machine to sell.

Met a nice local fella called Nathan today so we swapped a few global surf stories and shared a peak. He was goofy so went left and I took the rights. Happy days.

I managed to catch one or two longish rides but it was more a case of racing sections and maintaining speed rather than busting out any moves. The shorter wedge shaped peaks offered a bit more power though.

The tide dropped back and the waves seemed to get a little fat. There must be a deep channel down there currently as this has happened quite a lot lately. Once the tide drops over that it seems to get better again and a few bigger sets pushed through.

Stayed in till 7am today so it must have been better than Thursday. Let's see what the weekend brings.

Wind guru has been promising the earth lately and delivering very little!

I'm getting a bit sick of these small swells that seem to come and go on a daily basis - especially when all the other UK buoys including the Pembrokeshire one are going off daily.

It could be time to dredge scarweather sands...