The west wind blows

At the beach: 3-5ft, onshore but clean faces.
Swell: 1.7m
Period: 11.1 seconds, 5.7 seconds(underlying)
Wind: Light SW veering becoming moderate WSW, 7-12 Knots
Tide: On the push after after low, HT was at 10.40am

I had a nice little dawnie today.

Good to finally get up feeling semi-refreshed at 5am to find swell readings on the wave buoys at last!

A quick peek out of the window revealed a very light onshore breeze so it was time to raise the rabble and get going.

Creeping around the house trying not to wake anyone (baby mainly), I managed to bang into at least 3 loud objects and exited the house in my usual unorthodox style.

Mug of tea in hand (for survival) I headed towards the M4 for an industrial show down with lashings of margarine on top.

I met up with Doc and Rattz and we were in the sea by around 6.40am.

Annoyingly the wind picked up as we got within 500 yards of the beach and the initial sight before us was one of onshore, shapeless close-outs. I almost considered bailing at that point and saving myself for later.

Appearances can be deceptive though and we spied a little right hand peak doing it's thing so we took a wander down.

Expecting a taxing paddle out, doc and I were surprised when the ocean suddenly switched off allowing us a quick, safe passage through.

Rattz on the other hand made a complete meal out of it! LOL

After various failed attempts, a few walks up the beach and a spot of beach combing - he finally made it out.

Doc caught a nice right, taking off late and dropping down into the bowling section before kicking out and I picked off a few smaller clean ones, milking them for all they were worth, through to the inside.

Rattz smiling face eventually appeared in the line up and we then split into groups as I paddled down onto a right I'd be watching and the boys went down in the rip to surf a left hander.

The wind seemed to swing cross offshore then and my little right hand peak began to fire.

There were no barrels on offer today but some nice steep drops and a few longish rides allowing for one or two lip bashes with a cutty thrown in at the end for good measure.

The sun began to shine and the odd blue patch appeared in the heavens above. I sat out back singing Pearl Jam's "waves came crashing like a fist to his jaw; delivered him wings, oh look at him now..." and had a thoroughly good time. It seemed appropriate.

The ocean has good acoustics. Either that or it drowns out the sound...I wonder what the lone fisherman made of my recital? He seemed to be catching a lot!

I could see the boys getting a few but not many and after a while they paddled down to join me. I talked Doc through the intricacies of the peak and he thanked me graciously for my insight... ;)

I had a few nice waves today and it was holding up quite well on the rights. A couple were over head as I dropped into the bowls and were nudging 5ft with clean faces.

Doc caught one nice chunky right, bottom turned and zipped along before it closed out and took a few slaps including one absolute beauty - taking off as the wave turned hollow he proceeded to track sideways up the face, going over in the lip with his board, before surfacing to 2 more on the head.

You really had to be there! ;)

Rattz was get his joy stick arms onto some cheeky lefts and before we knew it - it was time to go.

I had a lovely wipe-out to end on as did Doc - always good to finish on a good one, right?

Not bad considering the wind swung moderate onshore for a while.

Roll on the weekend! Bigger and better on it's way.