Thursday 8 July 2010

Small but warm

Swell: 0.9m
Winds: Light SW
Tides: Dropping. HT was at 3.40am, 7.8m
Period: 11.9 seconds with a 6.5 underlying period.
At the beach: Cleanish lines around 2ft+ but lacking power

I rose swiftly at 5am and crept out - organised for once with everything ready downstairs. A peek out of the gull's nest revealed barely a breath of wind - just a very light sw breeze.

I powered up the chief and headed towards the beach. It was 5.15am and not a soul around :)

Rest was just dropping off the rocks as I paddled out into warm, but slightly choppy 2ft surf. The sea temp is now reaching 17C degs so feels very nice, even early in the morning.

I noticed the tide mark was quite foamy today and brown so not sure what that was but it looked like some kind of discharge to me?

The sets were nudging 3ft but hard to catch as there were quite long lulls so it was a bit random.

I caught a few rights and managed a couple of 'off the tops' and cutbacks on some but the wave was rapidly losing it's grunt as the tide receded.

Three other lads came down and surfed the middle peak whilst I paddled around golf looking for something a bit more inspirational.

I gave up at about 6.25am and was back home tucking into my brekkie by 6.45am.

It won't go down in history as one of my best surfs but it definitely wasn't one of my worst.

I just wish we were having some of the decent swell bombarding the West coast of Ireland currently!

Gull

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