Period: 10.2 seconds
Wind: light SE
Tide: Surfed the incoming tide. HT is at 9.37am, 9.1m
At the beach: 2ft+ and clean and only 4 surfers in.
A lovely day again in Porthcawl and hardly a breath of wind. I was busy getting jnr ready for nursery and decided to take a quick peek at the cam to see if the new swell had started to show yet. Doh! It had - clean lines and no-one in but the tide was pushing in fast!
I dropped Fin off and legged it down to the beach to find 3 in and clean 2ft+ sets peeling into the bay. There was plenty of swell hitting the headland too so I jogged on to check some of the other spots.
After a hot & sweaty 10 mins or so I found to my disappointment that the tide was just too big and suffocating the rockier spots.
I turned around and ran back to Rest, already knowing that I'd wasted precious time and the tide would be even further in now...
I was sweating like a wild boar at this point, so I was going in no matter what as the thought of putting my clothes back on and going into work in that state just wasn't an option.
Image from porthcawl surf:
I leashed up and entered via a rocky ledge and paddled straight out onto the peak alongside Emma who was out on her yellow longboard and catching some nice long rights.
A wave came my wave so I grabbed it and surfed it through to the inside, not bad but a tad small. A few more came in and the tide meant we all moved just that bit nearer to the rocks and beach.
I snagged 2 more rights which allowed for a couple of turns before deciding to cut my losses and head off to work.
Knowing there were rocks on the inside I took my time going in. Just as I cleared the rocks and felt soft sand under foot, a little shore dump rose up behind me and washed me off my feet.
A rocky island reared up out of nowhere (like the Lost City of Atlantis!) and like some sort of photon ray - sucked my knee straight onto it. Ouch! I limped in.
No harm done but my knee is a bit pink and sore right now.
I only caught 4 waves, but had a good jog and it was a lovely morning and it reminded me of why I moved to the coast :)
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