We've had some weird wave periods this week - 17 seconds + but a low underlying period deivering 2-3ft and clean most days
5am start today. I actually fell asleep with the alarm clock in my hand so I could switch it off quickly and not wake the missus! It kind of worked...
Switched on my mobile to find the usual barrage of texts from Rattz saying he's coming, he's not coming, it's too small, he's coming, he's on his way, he's in the van...
That's what too much fast living as a youngster does to you kids! Let that be a warning to you ;)
So anyway... we met up at one of our post apocalyptic industrial haunts and wondered down the old track and onto a new track arriving to see a perfect 3-4ft set unleash hell on the sandbar at which point Rattz uttered: "I'm glad you got me up. That was worth getting up for!"
Now I had planned on taking some video today but re-charged the wrong sized batteries last night so apologies. Will try again tomorrow - on saturday.
We paddled out. I attempted a dry hair paddle out and stood off my board as a set wave exploded, at which point the white water nailed me and sent me flying backwards - wet hair. I should've just duck dived it instead!
I was out back just in time fora perfect wave to roll through. the wind was light SE and the sun not quite up but this thing was glassy loveliness personified. Took off and went flying down a fast long wall blasting the lip as I went, 3 or 4 times and paddled straight back and did it 3 more times. Yes!!!
I tried my luck at a few stalls and cover ups up today was not the day and there was an annoying middle section which kept breaking early so I stopped all pig dog duties and focussed on down the line speed instead.
This was already turning into one of my best sessions this summer. Ratter caught some and things were going well. I even dropped in on him on an absolute beauty ( sorry!) but he was late... and I thought he's not make the section but I reluctantly kicked out and let him carry on his merry way.
It was a peach of a wave and he said it was nice but would've been even better without me on it! lol
Ratter then switched into dominator mode and caught waves every which way and caught some sweet looking lefts. The tide pushed in and brought with it a rip which took us off our peak for a while and we paddled back & forth trying to rekindle our previous delights.
Eventually the waves returned and actually picked up as we left around 8am. We did the old catch one more wave thing with both if us catching at least 3 more each and that was that.
My last but wave was a small, clean affair but I managed to bust out my ass and tail on it and land in some or other fashion. Rattz finished on a nice left and blasted the guts out of the lip before surfing in.
Reports coming in now of 4ft perfection at my local so I'm torn for where to go tomorrow.
Should I stay or should I go now.....?
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