Tube rculosis

Wave height: 1.2m - at the beach, 3-4ft+ and clean
Wave period: 14 seconds
Wind: Very light SE
HT: 6.40am, 9m+ surfed on the dropping tide.

It's high time I had something good to report! This morning was picture perfect. Not a breath of wind and lovely pink skies as the sun came up.

I walked down through the dunes alone and tried to work out how many surfers lay ahead as the car park was looking pretty full.

Doing my best Ray Mears impersonation I began tracking the footprints. The newly made footprints in the wet sand were clearly visible and I worked out that there were 3 separate prints.

I jogged the rest of the way and arrived to hear the sound of the ocean crunching pebbles - always a good sign and there in amongst the clean lines sat 4 surfers? So one of the them must have had a piggy back! LOL

I stood and watched for a few mins working through some stretches and spied an obscenely hollow right further down the beach. The guys out front were struggling a bit sitting too far out for the big tide but the swell was well and truly up!

Harv paddled out and within minutes had managed to drop in on me on my first wave! A nice right hander. Don't worry... I burned him properly later on :)

On the sets, the surf was a good 4ft and clean and as the tide receded we were met with perfect hollow a frames.

Harv and I sat out back a number of times watching this insane right throw out and barrel for miles but the rip always seemed to keep it at bay and the long lulls made locating the bank tricky.

Some of the waves coming through today were so perfect they reminded me of the wave doodles you draw on your books as a kid. I just wish I'd take my camera down with me.

Eventually we got onto the super bank and surfed that for the remaining hour. The take off and drop was so fast and hollow that I was forced to commit the ultimate crime and shoulder hop as I wasn't making many.

Despite being up on my feet quickly and flying along the face at warp speed. My new bigger fins are working a treat on the Firewire and I can surf lefts again! Yipeeeee

Harv was picking off waves left, right and centre, going late on some nice ones and getting long rights all the way through to the inside - damn spongers!

I still had visions of stand up tubes in my mind so waited for the bigger ones and hoped I was in position.

Eventually I stroked into a mid sized wave and got what I'd come for. I bottomed turned slightly as it jacked up and hooked up and under the shoulder.

The sunlight streamed along the wave face in front of me and I sat there in the tube for a few moments, grinning like a fool - probably the easiest barrel I've ever had there!

A few more waves and it was time to go. Looking back there were still some nice waves down towards the industrial zone and plenty in, still surfing the point area but it had lost it's size and was quite choppy down there.

A good start to what will hopefully be a great few of days surfing!