Wednesday 8 September 2010

I've hit rock bottom...

Swell: 0.9m
Period: 9.9 seconds
Wind: light SE
Tide: On the dropping tide, HT @ 6.50am, 10.2m

The winds eased over night and a small clean swell was pushing through this morning. Large tides had reduced Rest Bay to lines but the occasional set broke inside hinting at what could be.

The scarweather wave buoy was only ready 0.9m and around 10 seconds with light SE winds so I met up with local booger enthusiast - Will, for some high tide reef action.

Rest Bay @ HT today:


We arrived to find 2-3ft lefts peeling along a very shallow reef - it was less than waist deep in places and at times more like knee deep!

Paddling out I scraped fins :( and finger tips but made it out the back in one piece.

The waves definitely favoured the sponge today as Will could sit deeper, sitting on top of what became a dry slab at times. He even scored a few cover ups today, pulling in nicely under one chunky 3ft lip before being eaten up.

I had a few nice ones but was torn between take off area and keeping my fins in one piece! The reef in front of me was sucking dry and new rock obstacles appeared and disappeared with each surge of the tide.

Nevertheless, I managed to pick off a few nice rides with one left in particular holding up beautifully and throwing a nice hollow lip over. I didn't have time to pull in but had a nice ride anyway.

As the tide dropped, I began to move a little deeper but went one step too far...

As I got to my feet to make the drop, I spotted rock boils all around me turning into dry islands - all I needed was my deck chair! Time to bail but I'd run out of ocean. I was landlocked.

I jumped off; going as high and as flat as I could but landed with a thud onto jagged reef - Ouch. I felt a vertebrae bang beneath me and then realised the key inside my aqua-pac had softened the blow. Money well spent. No harm done luckily but that was a very close call.

In all my years surfing that's the first time when I've ever really hit rock bottom! No pun intended ;0

The tide dropped back but rather than improving the waves broke into deeper water and stopped delivering by 9am. A few peaks on the beach began to break but it was time to go. rest looked terrible but a few 'desperados' were in giving it a go, as usual.

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