The surf was around 1.7m on the wave buoy and 9 seconds with a light SE wind.
Fun, clean lines rolled in - a bit smaller than we would have liked but I was having fun and getting plenty of speed out of the quad.
The peaks were nicely groomed offering short rides but the occasional hollow one and I snuck my fringe inside one nice one and blasted a few lips so it was good fun.
The 'locals' burned me on a few, with blods dropping in on my 2nd wave claiming he didn't think I'd make it as I was deep in the lip. I told him I always make 'em ;) and got my own back on his next wave.
And so it continued for 2 more waves with the final score being 2-2. Evil got one up on me but left early before I could repay him! LOL... next time ;0
The dreaded shin cramps struck again! :( so I think I'm going to have to go to the docs and see if they can advise as it's very odd and really starting to get on my nerves now as I have to leave the water and run around on the beach until the pain subsides and then paddle back out.
I'm now wondering if it's caused by build up of lactic acid in my legs from surfing a bit too hard? I'm probably talking utter tripe here but I do tend to go at it hell for leather, catching everything I can and giving 100% on every wave so maybe it's time to slow down a bit and surf more sedately now I'm no longer a grom? ;)
Once back in, I tried to throw everything I had into each wave in case the cramps came back but caught some nice waves. I stuck one nice left with a little tail twist right in the sweet spot and threw a little bit of rooster so I'll have to try and replicate that more often if I remember.
The waves were a lovely shape despite blods saying they were "slow and fat"?! I'm not sure if he WAS talking about himself, his board or the waves but they were not what I'd call slow and fat! ;0
It just needed another 2ft on it and it would have been perfect. Rest Bay on the other hand was apparently "rammed and disappointing" so I definitely made the right call.
A light crowd thinned out even more as the tide pushed in and by the end we were left with 5 guys sharing two peaks and the one more wave syndrome kicked in with me having about 7 more waves before I called it a day.
I donned the winter rubber for the first time and apart from a quick fight with my aqua pack - it doesn't seem to go inside my (Xcel winter suit quite so easily)it was fine. I definitely felt more tired than usual once I was home but my wave count was high and that's the main thing!
Saturday night came and I was happily sitting down, mug of tea in hand ready to sit through another painful X-Factor when the phone rang. It was Will asking me if I wanted to go along and support the 'Elusive Movember' event in Porthcawl....
The competition for 'Mr Movember' hots up as the boys are shamed into taking off their shirts. The girls however kept theirs on....?
A quick check with the wife led to me getting a pass and off we went along with Will's wife Jo.
The guys laid on an good night at the Fairways Hotel- complete with cover band ' Jasper' who played everything from Pearl Jam to Kings of Leon and they also had a smoke machine that seemed to be coming out of Matt Hapgood's drumkit?! LOL
All for a good cause and there were some amazing moustaches on display. Mine wasn't a very good effort but tbh - I'd forgotten it was on so only had a weeks worth of growth to work with!
Good to meet up with everyone and had a nice chat with Matt and Emma etc - see you out back sometime!
My last ditch effort:
Surfing prospects are poor for this week with a NE swell so it will be flat here (The East coast could be good though!) but turning much colder with a few light dusting of snow in places, so it might be time for me to wrap up the palm tree in my garden.
Gull
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