Saturday was a pleasant surprise. Gave Merchant his early morning wake up call at 8am and suggested a dip at Rest Bay. The winds were onshore but light and there was a medium swell running.
Nath had had a few beers the night before and was already talking about it being a tricky paddle out so the warning signs were there! ;)
We paddled out and I lost Nath about halfway out last seen going the wrong way over towards the headland ;) I carried on and was pleased to see a few clean faces jacking up and landing in front me.
I noticed a few guys sat further out - Adrian etc so went a bit further and took my spot out back. The waves although crumbly in a light wsw breeze had plenty of power and were 3-4ft. Nath ended up at Coney for some reason but caught a few apparently.
As the tide pushed, the waves improved and within an hour the wind had swung dropped to a very light cross offshore - result!
I bumped into the Greek lads out back and the crowd filled slightly but the vibe was good with plenty of good rights coming through and some nice high speed bowling sections to carve off.
a set appeared and I could see two lads to my left with priority but looking too deep to ever catch me up so off I went. I checked to my left just in case they made it and saw the nearest surfer fall on bottom turn so I had a clear run.
I had a nice long right, kicked out and paddled back only to find the other surfer staring at me?
He continued to paddle, stop, turn around and stare at me as he made his way back to the line up. I found the whole thing a bit bizarre? What was I meant to do, not go just because he'd attempted a wave and fallen off?! To give you an idea of how far away I was, I kicked out about 40-50 feet away from him!
I paddled back to my slot determined not to let it ruin a good surf and took off on a nice wave only to find the same guy doing his best to get in the way as he paddled back out - making no effort to move so I took the drop, steering away from him and continued on my way.
As I paddled out the same guy took off and the deliberately rode straight for me narrowly missing me as I paddled up and out of the way and over the wave.
I took a deep breath and let it go as I know the other guy in question is a local surfer and I didn't really want to start a 'tit for tat' campaign which would ultimately only end in confrontation or someone getting injured. Be the better man etc...
That was it really, I caught a few more and called it a day. Thoroughly surprising session only slightly soured by the actions of another surfer.
A shame as we don't this kind of behaviour at Rest Bay - save it for Hawaii!
Sunday delivered more waves but smaller and onshore with a stronger w wind. I opted for a quick surf at sker and met up with harv & co so some fun 2-3ft mush burgers. The waves did improve and the sun came out so not a bad hour or so paddling for everything that came my way.
Monday, 22 August 2011
Tuesday, 16 August 2011
It just dawned on me
I've been away visiting the outlaws in Germany recently, typically I left the day before a new low pressure pushed in from the Atlantic, but from all accounts, I've missed nothing other than some smallish blown out onshore days.
11 days away from the ocean were certainly taking their toll though and I was frothing like David Frothelhoff by the time we got back late on Sunday night!
Despite Fin having a restless night, I'd set my alarm for 5 am determined to try out my new wetty which has been lying around the house (bone dry) now for some time.
A quick check of the wave buoy date on the i-phone (under the duvet) revealed a small swell but half decent wave period - decent enough for a desperate man anyway at 6 or 7 seconds. The winds were very light NW and a 1.4m swell was running so there should be something, surely?!
I loaded up the van and was at the beach a few minutes later, just in time to witness a spectacularly pink sunrise and told myself it was worth being tired just to see that.
I sat and watched the misformed waves peaking and tumbling about at mid tide Rest Bay and at one point almost bailed. Yes there was surf but the big tides weren't helping with the banks and I just couldn't see anything I'd get more than a drop out of.
The waves were clean on the face though and some even threw the lip out to form little barrels but it was tricky to see 'that wave' which is the one wave breaking that always inspires you, should you ever be in any doubt about paddling out.
"If in doubt paddle out"
I had a quick word with myself and got suited up. As I walked down into the shallows I realised how warm the sea felt and figured a paddle as good an option as any so with no other soul in sight I got my 40 yr old ass out the back, wondering if the beach was closed as there would normally be at least 10 surfers in by now?!
As I paddled out I was rewarded by a few powerful lumps on the head, only 2-3ft but that was enough to make me smile knowing that it could only improve over the next hour or so and it did.
One other guy - Ollie paddled out later and we shared some fun waves. No lengthy rides but one or two which held up long enough to throw in some turns and the odd close out lip bash.
It was just what I needed though and sometimes just one turn can be all the salt water therapy a man needs to start the day in the right way. You can keep your Special K!
I was back in time for a family breakfast, ticking all the right boxes and the new wetsuit was great, really warm, flexible and comfortable and should see me well into late November/December.
It looks like we're in for a few days of swell this week as a couple of weakish fronts move in for Thursday and then Saturday. The winds going offshore on Weds and Thursday so we might just get some fun, clean surf in this week...
11 days away from the ocean were certainly taking their toll though and I was frothing like David Frothelhoff by the time we got back late on Sunday night!
Despite Fin having a restless night, I'd set my alarm for 5 am determined to try out my new wetty which has been lying around the house (bone dry) now for some time.
A quick check of the wave buoy date on the i-phone (under the duvet) revealed a small swell but half decent wave period - decent enough for a desperate man anyway at 6 or 7 seconds. The winds were very light NW and a 1.4m swell was running so there should be something, surely?!
I loaded up the van and was at the beach a few minutes later, just in time to witness a spectacularly pink sunrise and told myself it was worth being tired just to see that.
I sat and watched the misformed waves peaking and tumbling about at mid tide Rest Bay and at one point almost bailed. Yes there was surf but the big tides weren't helping with the banks and I just couldn't see anything I'd get more than a drop out of.
The waves were clean on the face though and some even threw the lip out to form little barrels but it was tricky to see 'that wave' which is the one wave breaking that always inspires you, should you ever be in any doubt about paddling out.
"If in doubt paddle out"
I had a quick word with myself and got suited up. As I walked down into the shallows I realised how warm the sea felt and figured a paddle as good an option as any so with no other soul in sight I got my 40 yr old ass out the back, wondering if the beach was closed as there would normally be at least 10 surfers in by now?!
As I paddled out I was rewarded by a few powerful lumps on the head, only 2-3ft but that was enough to make me smile knowing that it could only improve over the next hour or so and it did.
One other guy - Ollie paddled out later and we shared some fun waves. No lengthy rides but one or two which held up long enough to throw in some turns and the odd close out lip bash.
It was just what I needed though and sometimes just one turn can be all the salt water therapy a man needs to start the day in the right way. You can keep your Special K!
I was back in time for a family breakfast, ticking all the right boxes and the new wetsuit was great, really warm, flexible and comfortable and should see me well into late November/December.
It looks like we're in for a few days of swell this week as a couple of weakish fronts move in for Thursday and then Saturday. The winds going offshore on Weds and Thursday so we might just get some fun, clean surf in this week...
Tuesday, 2 August 2011
Ankle slappers
The fact that I've not blogged since June 29 speaks volumes in gull's world...It's been dire.
I've mustered two really poor surfs at the end of July, one in choppy onshore 1-2ft, the other in windless seas but on a large tide and small swell so I spent an hour dodging rocks and just about managing to stand up on the weak pulses.
Despite the dire waves, I actually surfed quite well, popping up quickly and finding the occasional bit of face but I know I'll struggle from surf fitness once we get proper waves again.
I've recently turned 40... and acquired a new wetty which I'm keen to try out but am determined to christen it in waves which are taller than my knees.
You can tell it's been flat as I'm now climbing the walls and getting very pissed off at missing the 1-2ft weak surf that keeps on mystically appearing around mid tide.
I was positively frothing this morning as I ran out of time for a pre work dip and may go later but it doesn't look good currently so may have to drown my sorrows at the surf club meeting tonight.
I'm off to a land locked country shortly for 10 days just as ********* low pressure arrives but it ain't over until the fat lady sings and I still have 48 hours to try and get a half decent surf in.
Roll on September, I'm off somewhere with surf - I don't care where!
I've mustered two really poor surfs at the end of July, one in choppy onshore 1-2ft, the other in windless seas but on a large tide and small swell so I spent an hour dodging rocks and just about managing to stand up on the weak pulses.
Despite the dire waves, I actually surfed quite well, popping up quickly and finding the occasional bit of face but I know I'll struggle from surf fitness once we get proper waves again.
I've recently turned 40...
You can tell it's been flat as I'm now climbing the walls and getting very pissed off at missing the 1-2ft weak surf that keeps on mystically appearing around mid tide.
I was positively frothing this morning as I ran out of time for a pre work dip and may go later but it doesn't look good currently so may have to drown my sorrows at the surf club meeting tonight.
I'm off to a land locked country shortly for 10 days just as ********* low pressure arrives but it ain't over until the fat lady sings and I still have 48 hours to try and get a half decent surf in.
Roll on September, I'm off somewhere with surf - I don't care where!
Wednesday, 29 June 2011
Sunday's heat wave
The wave drought finally broke last week when we enjoyed a heat wave 'of sorts' with temps reaching a staggering 26 degrees in parts of Wales ;0
Not only did we have blue sky and sunshine but also a light cross offshore SE wind and solid ground swell, nudging 4ft on sets with a 10 sec wave period making all the difference.
Everywhere was heaving and Sker was no exception but I found a nice peak and tried to stay on it picking off decent rights whenever they came through.
I was on my OP 6'6 single fin which was a bit weird as I've not ridden it in more than a year as I've been surfing my 'ickle 5'10" Firewire Quad (being repaired)but I managed to hang onto a few and got some fairly long rides. It's a great board to paddle though and got me into a few peachy waves nice and early.
I did however find it very stiff and dug far too many rails, in my quest to hack into some lips. I guess I'll have to persevere with it a bit more as it's a beautiful board to ride once you find the sweet spot.
Had a quick chat with Eliot Dudley about boards, always nice to meet someone else with an interest and he showed him a sweet looking Pavel quad fish he'd picked up in the states. Elliot had just won the Welsh Nationals longboard at Llantwit on the saturday so well done him and hope he's enjoying life out west in Newgale.
Bumped into a few more WCSC associates out back who all seemed to be enjoying the swell and although a bit more crowded than normal, everyone was spread out and well behaved.
I did however get assassinated by an old boy on a long longboard who not only dropped in on me badly, but then proceeded to kick out badly, sending his board straight towards my head causing an emergency bail and wasted wave. It was a beauty too :(
Next few days were small and clean but we're locked into high pressure now so flatness will ensue for the rest of the week and weekend but at least most of us scored on Sunday - it's amazing how just one decent swell can cheer us all up after months of flatness & onshore slop.
And finally...Sven (a surf buddy of mine) and Mads are now the proud parents of a baby boy named 'Raphael Beau Attridge' who weighed in at 9lbs and flew out in about 4hrs so well done guys! x
Not only did we have blue sky and sunshine but also a light cross offshore SE wind and solid ground swell, nudging 4ft on sets with a 10 sec wave period making all the difference.
Everywhere was heaving and Sker was no exception but I found a nice peak and tried to stay on it picking off decent rights whenever they came through.
I was on my OP 6'6 single fin which was a bit weird as I've not ridden it in more than a year as I've been surfing my 'ickle 5'10" Firewire Quad (being repaired)but I managed to hang onto a few and got some fairly long rides. It's a great board to paddle though and got me into a few peachy waves nice and early.
I did however find it very stiff and dug far too many rails, in my quest to hack into some lips. I guess I'll have to persevere with it a bit more as it's a beautiful board to ride once you find the sweet spot.
Had a quick chat with Eliot Dudley about boards, always nice to meet someone else with an interest and he showed him a sweet looking Pavel quad fish he'd picked up in the states. Elliot had just won the Welsh Nationals longboard at Llantwit on the saturday so well done him and hope he's enjoying life out west in Newgale.
Bumped into a few more WCSC associates out back who all seemed to be enjoying the swell and although a bit more crowded than normal, everyone was spread out and well behaved.
I did however get assassinated by an old boy on a long longboard who not only dropped in on me badly, but then proceeded to kick out badly, sending his board straight towards my head causing an emergency bail and wasted wave. It was a beauty too :(
Next few days were small and clean but we're locked into high pressure now so flatness will ensue for the rest of the week and weekend but at least most of us scored on Sunday - it's amazing how just one decent swell can cheer us all up after months of flatness & onshore slop.
And finally...Sven (a surf buddy of mine) and Mads are now the proud parents of a baby boy named 'Raphael Beau Attridge' who weighed in at 9lbs and flew out in about 4hrs so well done guys! x
Potential surf dog
Colleague in work sent me this link of his pooch having a go in Cornwall and I have to say - she puts a lot of the kooks in Rest Bay to shame.
Straight into the sea, paddling out back, to the lineup and waits for a set before paddling for a couple. Well done Ella the surf dog. Imagine what she could do on a board?!
Straight into the sea, paddling out back, to the lineup and waits for a set before paddling for a couple. Well done Ella the surf dog. Imagine what she could do on a board?!
Friday, 24 June 2011
Worst June for a long while
That seems to be the headline for this month. I was chatting to bob blythe the other day who informed me that June was always good for as long as he could remember (back in the day!) and this was the worst one he could remember and he's getting on a bit now ;)
We've had the swell but the wind has killed it thanks largely to the jet stream being too far south - it's now buggered off up north again so fingers crossed it stays there for a while.
We've got a weak low pushing in over SW Ireland tonight and into tomorrow and then clearing for Sunday. Apparently the rest of the Welsh Nationals will be taking place at Fresh West over the weekend so at least they should have waves although I'm sure Saturday will be too clever in that wind.
The point in Porthcawl has had a couple of half decent days but the tides have meant earlies and late surfs were out the window so only the self employed, unemployed and students have been able to score any waves!
The wind has been relentless though, blowing strong all day and into the night and carrying on the next day all week long...
Windguru has been conjuring up daft expectations for Sunday getting everyone in a pickle but I think there will be a lot of disappointed surfers out there this weekend although having said that - at least we'll have something to surf!
If we get 3ft on Sunday then we'll be happy, just so long as the wind plays ball and delivers SSE as promised...
Other news - our WCSC club fundraiser and the Elusive Taylor Steele Night went down well and we raised a few quid for the Logan Padden Foundation. The beach day moved to Sunday and I worked the barbie hard for a couple of hours feeding the hoards of hungry surfers who kept coming back for 2nds, 3rds and in some cases 4ths?!
A crowd gathers for the penalty shoot out down on the beach:
Tom Anderson rocked the mic, turning the event into an ASP world tour event complete with beach side interviews with anyone that moved whilst Matt Hapgood helped me on the BBQ, throwing on raw meet whenever I gave him the nod!
The club gazebo and base camp for the day:
Stu Bentley was luckily on hand with all the hardware and helped us erect the large club gazebo etc which would have been a struggle without him so it turned into a pretty civilised affair with tables, chairs, plates and eventually cutlery!
We ended the day with a fun swell board tag team event complete with inflatable croc nicknamed 'steve' which had to be ridden for 2 waves by each team.
The red team ended up winning - comprising of myself, matt, sonja, emma and lewis and we all received beautiful Olympic style medals for our troubles ;)
Looking forward to the next one...
We've had the swell but the wind has killed it thanks largely to the jet stream being too far south - it's now buggered off up north again so fingers crossed it stays there for a while.
We've got a weak low pushing in over SW Ireland tonight and into tomorrow and then clearing for Sunday. Apparently the rest of the Welsh Nationals will be taking place at Fresh West over the weekend so at least they should have waves although I'm sure Saturday will be too clever in that wind.
The point in Porthcawl has had a couple of half decent days but the tides have meant earlies and late surfs were out the window so only the self employed, unemployed and students have been able to score any waves!
The wind has been relentless though, blowing strong all day and into the night and carrying on the next day all week long...
Windguru has been conjuring up daft expectations for Sunday getting everyone in a pickle but I think there will be a lot of disappointed surfers out there this weekend although having said that - at least we'll have something to surf!
If we get 3ft on Sunday then we'll be happy, just so long as the wind plays ball and delivers SSE as promised...
Other news - our WCSC club fundraiser and the Elusive Taylor Steele Night went down well and we raised a few quid for the Logan Padden Foundation. The beach day moved to Sunday and I worked the barbie hard for a couple of hours feeding the hoards of hungry surfers who kept coming back for 2nds, 3rds and in some cases 4ths?!
A crowd gathers for the penalty shoot out down on the beach:
Tom Anderson rocked the mic, turning the event into an ASP world tour event complete with beach side interviews with anyone that moved whilst Matt Hapgood helped me on the BBQ, throwing on raw meet whenever I gave him the nod!
The club gazebo and base camp for the day:
Stu Bentley was luckily on hand with all the hardware and helped us erect the large club gazebo etc which would have been a struggle without him so it turned into a pretty civilised affair with tables, chairs, plates and eventually cutlery!
We ended the day with a fun swell board tag team event complete with inflatable croc nicknamed 'steve' which had to be ridden for 2 waves by each team.
The red team ended up winning - comprising of myself, matt, sonja, emma and lewis and we all received beautiful Olympic style medals for our troubles ;)
Looking forward to the next one...
Wednesday, 15 June 2011
what happened to summer?
Wimbledon is just around the corner but we've not had nice hot sunny weather( lasting longer than a day) for about 2 months now. Weak lows keep sending wind and rain in our general direction so we end up shit surf and wet weather. I'm meeting a lot of disgruntled surfers at the moment and this is shaping up to be one of our worst summers in a long while (for surf and weather).
I'm helping out with the WCSC International Surf Day @ Rest Bay this Saturday from 11amand the forecast keeps changing but hoping we'll have a relatively dry day. Loads of things lined up for all ages and abilities so hope to many of you down there.
The tag team event is the only one requiring registration so pop along at 11am if you want to put your name down. Food is all free but donations are welcome as we're raising £ for the Logan Padden Foundation.
The evening will be dry as we're indoors at the Fairways so that promises to be an epic night with live music, new surf movies and an aution so I'm sure plenty of ale will be drunk.
I'm helping out with the WCSC International Surf Day @ Rest Bay this Saturday from 11amand the forecast keeps changing but hoping we'll have a relatively dry day. Loads of things lined up for all ages and abilities so hope to many of you down there.
The tag team event is the only one requiring registration so pop along at 11am if you want to put your name down. Food is all free but donations are welcome as we're raising £ for the Logan Padden Foundation.
The evening will be dry as we're indoors at the Fairways so that promises to be an epic night with live music, new surf movies and an aution so I'm sure plenty of ale will be drunk.
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