Not posted for a while as the surf has either been cranking or distinctly average so apologies.
My last good session went down 2 weeks ago. I'd booked the friday off in preparation and hooked up with greg hill for an industrial session. Super tubes wasn't super at all, it looked small, really small so we opted for plan B which was going to be our second surf spot anyway.
The tides were stupidly low, the period nudging 12 seconds and a half decent swell was running with light offshores...
Arriving at the beach we were dazzled by the extremely low tide which was still miles out although it had supposedly turned an hour ago. Never mind, we could see some lines pushing in a few guys getting some so trekked down to the water edge and paddled out.
Fun, 2-3ft waves were pushing in, pretty hollow but fast and closing out unless you got right on the end of them but we shared a few. As the afternoon wore on the wave quality improved, dan and his mate paddled out and we also blods, wilks and matt eventually, surfing a peak further down.
The waves began to go into overdrive around mid-tide and greg picked off some nice rights. I was missing my mojo a bit, I couldn't decide where to position myself and kept missing the set waves. Eventually I gave up chasing and tried for smaller, cleaner inside wave.
I paddled hard and as I jumped up, and dropped down in a jacking, hollow 3-4ft wedge, pulled into the barrel and watched greg paddling back out from inside the tube, as he hooted :)
My exit wasn't pretty, kind of a side curtain, lip avoidance but I came out and then got creamed by a few heavy close-outs for my trouble but ti gave me the adrenalin boost I needed.
We decided to try our luck down towards the steel so after a quick gulp of water on the beach moved down. The tide was pushing fast and it didn't look particularly good but as we all know, looks can be deceiving! Once we'd worked our way through the sun's glare we found some half decent 4-ft peaks.
This time I was on it and had one of those rare wave magnet moments where no matter which way I paddled the set wave came and left the crowd to one side. I caught 5 cracking waves, nice overhead drops into long, fast, walling lefts allowing for 4 or 5 turns on each ride.
I've not had waves as good as this all summer long so was well and truly stoked when we got out after a solid 3-4 hour session. Greg was only 2 hours later for his weekend away but it was his birthday and well worth it!
Wednesday, 12 October 2011
Thursday, 15 September 2011
Calm after hurricane katia
Hurricane Katia has been battering Wales this week but sheltered spots have provided some respite even if it did mean many of us were forced to surf Coney beach :(
You can see some of the pics taken at Coney, Porthcawl here.
I popped down on Weds evening and after a frustrating 30 mins or so, finally caught a half decent wave. It was in the 3-4ft range with a howling cross offshore nw wind with the harbour wall protecting us from the brunt of the wind.
Sven and Wilks - the new dad brigade came down and we had a few laughs, sharing the waves as the sun went down, all too early at about 8pm. I left feeling shattered after all the paddling but had 3 or 4 good waves with some clean open face.
Thursday:
0.9m
10.6 seconds
Light SE winds
HT 9.30am, 9.5m+
I opted for a 'late' early today as I had the morning off, beautifully orchestrated to combine with a clean swell, decent period and SE offshore wind :)
I could hear the waves as I walked neared and spied a few lines so knew it would be nice. Spotted a large rat in the dunes as I scurried off so I guess he'd been up early!
The tides were large but sker worked through. I arrived just after 8am and scored some lovely rights, breaking quite far out and working themselves all the way down to the inside pebble bank. The waves were fast today, so you had to pick and choose your moves or get left behind.
Despite the car park being rammed, there were very few in the water as the work crowd had bailed leaving me with a nice peak and only 4 of us in.
Out back I chatted to an American girl over here from NJ who was surfing pretty good and had a few nice lefts! I'm always fascinated to know how on earth surfers from abroad manage to find out about sker but I guess word of mouth and the internet plays its part.
I finally feel like I'm finding the sweet spot on my 'dominator', getting a lot more pazazzzzzzz out of the bottom turns now and beating sections comfortably. It's taken me long enough but I'm really enjoying my surfing at the moment.
Blods eventually snaked his way into the line up ;) along with French Jeff and Sven staggered back down the bank to join us having surfed earlier despite arranging to meet me at 8am? Who knows what goes in his mind of jelly! ;)
Walking back I was accosted by a large German Shepherd bitch 'on heat' and off its lead. I decided to hold my ground as it was getting quite wound up by my presence, barking and banging its head into my Firewire! Eventually its stupid owner came over and put it on a lead at my request.
Caught a few really nice waves today, landed a couple of floaters and left feeling very contented. There were some beautiful peaks throwing out today and although small, were a joy to be amongst.
Shame I had work this afternoon but there's always tomorrow!
You can see some of the pics taken at Coney, Porthcawl here.
I popped down on Weds evening and after a frustrating 30 mins or so, finally caught a half decent wave. It was in the 3-4ft range with a howling cross offshore nw wind with the harbour wall protecting us from the brunt of the wind.
Sven and Wilks - the new dad brigade came down and we had a few laughs, sharing the waves as the sun went down, all too early at about 8pm. I left feeling shattered after all the paddling but had 3 or 4 good waves with some clean open face.
Thursday:
0.9m
10.6 seconds
Light SE winds
HT 9.30am, 9.5m+
I opted for a 'late' early today as I had the morning off, beautifully orchestrated to combine with a clean swell, decent period and SE offshore wind :)
I could hear the waves as I walked neared and spied a few lines so knew it would be nice. Spotted a large rat in the dunes as I scurried off so I guess he'd been up early!
The tides were large but sker worked through. I arrived just after 8am and scored some lovely rights, breaking quite far out and working themselves all the way down to the inside pebble bank. The waves were fast today, so you had to pick and choose your moves or get left behind.
Despite the car park being rammed, there were very few in the water as the work crowd had bailed leaving me with a nice peak and only 4 of us in.
Out back I chatted to an American girl over here from NJ who was surfing pretty good and had a few nice lefts! I'm always fascinated to know how on earth surfers from abroad manage to find out about sker but I guess word of mouth and the internet plays its part.
I finally feel like I'm finding the sweet spot on my 'dominator', getting a lot more pazazzzzzzz out of the bottom turns now and beating sections comfortably. It's taken me long enough but I'm really enjoying my surfing at the moment.
Blods eventually snaked his way into the line up ;) along with French Jeff and Sven staggered back down the bank to join us having surfed earlier despite arranging to meet me at 8am? Who knows what goes in his mind of jelly! ;)
Walking back I was accosted by a large German Shepherd bitch 'on heat' and off its lead. I decided to hold my ground as it was getting quite wound up by my presence, barking and banging its head into my Firewire! Eventually its stupid owner came over and put it on a lead at my request.
Caught a few really nice waves today, landed a couple of floaters and left feeling very contented. There were some beautiful peaks throwing out today and although small, were a joy to be amongst.
Shame I had work this afternoon but there's always tomorrow!
Monday, 22 August 2011
Weekend waves
Saturday was a pleasant surprise. Gave Merchant his early morning wake up call at 8am and suggested a dip at Rest Bay. The winds were onshore but light and there was a medium swell running.
Nath had had a few beers the night before and was already talking about it being a tricky paddle out so the warning signs were there! ;)
We paddled out and I lost Nath about halfway out last seen going the wrong way over towards the headland ;) I carried on and was pleased to see a few clean faces jacking up and landing in front me.
I noticed a few guys sat further out - Adrian etc so went a bit further and took my spot out back. The waves although crumbly in a light wsw breeze had plenty of power and were 3-4ft. Nath ended up at Coney for some reason but caught a few apparently.
As the tide pushed, the waves improved and within an hour the wind had swung dropped to a very light cross offshore - result!
I bumped into the Greek lads out back and the crowd filled slightly but the vibe was good with plenty of good rights coming through and some nice high speed bowling sections to carve off.
a set appeared and I could see two lads to my left with priority but looking too deep to ever catch me up so off I went. I checked to my left just in case they made it and saw the nearest surfer fall on bottom turn so I had a clear run.
I had a nice long right, kicked out and paddled back only to find the other surfer staring at me?
He continued to paddle, stop, turn around and stare at me as he made his way back to the line up. I found the whole thing a bit bizarre? What was I meant to do, not go just because he'd attempted a wave and fallen off?! To give you an idea of how far away I was, I kicked out about 40-50 feet away from him!
I paddled back to my slot determined not to let it ruin a good surf and took off on a nice wave only to find the same guy doing his best to get in the way as he paddled back out - making no effort to move so I took the drop, steering away from him and continued on my way.
As I paddled out the same guy took off and the deliberately rode straight for me narrowly missing me as I paddled up and out of the way and over the wave.
I took a deep breath and let it go as I know the other guy in question is a local surfer and I didn't really want to start a 'tit for tat' campaign which would ultimately only end in confrontation or someone getting injured. Be the better man etc...
That was it really, I caught a few more and called it a day. Thoroughly surprising session only slightly soured by the actions of another surfer.
A shame as we don't this kind of behaviour at Rest Bay - save it for Hawaii!
Sunday delivered more waves but smaller and onshore with a stronger w wind. I opted for a quick surf at sker and met up with harv & co so some fun 2-3ft mush burgers. The waves did improve and the sun came out so not a bad hour or so paddling for everything that came my way.
Nath had had a few beers the night before and was already talking about it being a tricky paddle out so the warning signs were there! ;)
We paddled out and I lost Nath about halfway out last seen going the wrong way over towards the headland ;) I carried on and was pleased to see a few clean faces jacking up and landing in front me.
I noticed a few guys sat further out - Adrian etc so went a bit further and took my spot out back. The waves although crumbly in a light wsw breeze had plenty of power and were 3-4ft. Nath ended up at Coney for some reason but caught a few apparently.
As the tide pushed, the waves improved and within an hour the wind had swung dropped to a very light cross offshore - result!
I bumped into the Greek lads out back and the crowd filled slightly but the vibe was good with plenty of good rights coming through and some nice high speed bowling sections to carve off.
a set appeared and I could see two lads to my left with priority but looking too deep to ever catch me up so off I went. I checked to my left just in case they made it and saw the nearest surfer fall on bottom turn so I had a clear run.
I had a nice long right, kicked out and paddled back only to find the other surfer staring at me?
He continued to paddle, stop, turn around and stare at me as he made his way back to the line up. I found the whole thing a bit bizarre? What was I meant to do, not go just because he'd attempted a wave and fallen off?! To give you an idea of how far away I was, I kicked out about 40-50 feet away from him!
I paddled back to my slot determined not to let it ruin a good surf and took off on a nice wave only to find the same guy doing his best to get in the way as he paddled back out - making no effort to move so I took the drop, steering away from him and continued on my way.
As I paddled out the same guy took off and the deliberately rode straight for me narrowly missing me as I paddled up and out of the way and over the wave.
I took a deep breath and let it go as I know the other guy in question is a local surfer and I didn't really want to start a 'tit for tat' campaign which would ultimately only end in confrontation or someone getting injured. Be the better man etc...
That was it really, I caught a few more and called it a day. Thoroughly surprising session only slightly soured by the actions of another surfer.
A shame as we don't this kind of behaviour at Rest Bay - save it for Hawaii!
Sunday delivered more waves but smaller and onshore with a stronger w wind. I opted for a quick surf at sker and met up with harv & co so some fun 2-3ft mush burgers. The waves did improve and the sun came out so not a bad hour or so paddling for everything that came my way.
Tuesday, 16 August 2011
It just dawned on me
I've been away visiting the outlaws in Germany recently, typically I left the day before a new low pressure pushed in from the Atlantic, but from all accounts, I've missed nothing other than some smallish blown out onshore days.
11 days away from the ocean were certainly taking their toll though and I was frothing like David Frothelhoff by the time we got back late on Sunday night!
Despite Fin having a restless night, I'd set my alarm for 5 am determined to try out my new wetty which has been lying around the house (bone dry) now for some time.
A quick check of the wave buoy date on the i-phone (under the duvet) revealed a small swell but half decent wave period - decent enough for a desperate man anyway at 6 or 7 seconds. The winds were very light NW and a 1.4m swell was running so there should be something, surely?!
I loaded up the van and was at the beach a few minutes later, just in time to witness a spectacularly pink sunrise and told myself it was worth being tired just to see that.
I sat and watched the misformed waves peaking and tumbling about at mid tide Rest Bay and at one point almost bailed. Yes there was surf but the big tides weren't helping with the banks and I just couldn't see anything I'd get more than a drop out of.
The waves were clean on the face though and some even threw the lip out to form little barrels but it was tricky to see 'that wave' which is the one wave breaking that always inspires you, should you ever be in any doubt about paddling out.
"If in doubt paddle out"
I had a quick word with myself and got suited up. As I walked down into the shallows I realised how warm the sea felt and figured a paddle as good an option as any so with no other soul in sight I got my 40 yr old ass out the back, wondering if the beach was closed as there would normally be at least 10 surfers in by now?!
As I paddled out I was rewarded by a few powerful lumps on the head, only 2-3ft but that was enough to make me smile knowing that it could only improve over the next hour or so and it did.
One other guy - Ollie paddled out later and we shared some fun waves. No lengthy rides but one or two which held up long enough to throw in some turns and the odd close out lip bash.
It was just what I needed though and sometimes just one turn can be all the salt water therapy a man needs to start the day in the right way. You can keep your Special K!
I was back in time for a family breakfast, ticking all the right boxes and the new wetsuit was great, really warm, flexible and comfortable and should see me well into late November/December.
It looks like we're in for a few days of swell this week as a couple of weakish fronts move in for Thursday and then Saturday. The winds going offshore on Weds and Thursday so we might just get some fun, clean surf in this week...
11 days away from the ocean were certainly taking their toll though and I was frothing like David Frothelhoff by the time we got back late on Sunday night!
Despite Fin having a restless night, I'd set my alarm for 5 am determined to try out my new wetty which has been lying around the house (bone dry) now for some time.
A quick check of the wave buoy date on the i-phone (under the duvet) revealed a small swell but half decent wave period - decent enough for a desperate man anyway at 6 or 7 seconds. The winds were very light NW and a 1.4m swell was running so there should be something, surely?!
I loaded up the van and was at the beach a few minutes later, just in time to witness a spectacularly pink sunrise and told myself it was worth being tired just to see that.
I sat and watched the misformed waves peaking and tumbling about at mid tide Rest Bay and at one point almost bailed. Yes there was surf but the big tides weren't helping with the banks and I just couldn't see anything I'd get more than a drop out of.
The waves were clean on the face though and some even threw the lip out to form little barrels but it was tricky to see 'that wave' which is the one wave breaking that always inspires you, should you ever be in any doubt about paddling out.
"If in doubt paddle out"
I had a quick word with myself and got suited up. As I walked down into the shallows I realised how warm the sea felt and figured a paddle as good an option as any so with no other soul in sight I got my 40 yr old ass out the back, wondering if the beach was closed as there would normally be at least 10 surfers in by now?!
As I paddled out I was rewarded by a few powerful lumps on the head, only 2-3ft but that was enough to make me smile knowing that it could only improve over the next hour or so and it did.
One other guy - Ollie paddled out later and we shared some fun waves. No lengthy rides but one or two which held up long enough to throw in some turns and the odd close out lip bash.
It was just what I needed though and sometimes just one turn can be all the salt water therapy a man needs to start the day in the right way. You can keep your Special K!
I was back in time for a family breakfast, ticking all the right boxes and the new wetsuit was great, really warm, flexible and comfortable and should see me well into late November/December.
It looks like we're in for a few days of swell this week as a couple of weakish fronts move in for Thursday and then Saturday. The winds going offshore on Weds and Thursday so we might just get some fun, clean surf in this week...
Tuesday, 2 August 2011
Ankle slappers
The fact that I've not blogged since June 29 speaks volumes in gull's world...It's been dire.
I've mustered two really poor surfs at the end of July, one in choppy onshore 1-2ft, the other in windless seas but on a large tide and small swell so I spent an hour dodging rocks and just about managing to stand up on the weak pulses.
Despite the dire waves, I actually surfed quite well, popping up quickly and finding the occasional bit of face but I know I'll struggle from surf fitness once we get proper waves again.
I've recently turned 40... and acquired a new wetty which I'm keen to try out but am determined to christen it in waves which are taller than my knees.
You can tell it's been flat as I'm now climbing the walls and getting very pissed off at missing the 1-2ft weak surf that keeps on mystically appearing around mid tide.
I was positively frothing this morning as I ran out of time for a pre work dip and may go later but it doesn't look good currently so may have to drown my sorrows at the surf club meeting tonight.
I'm off to a land locked country shortly for 10 days just as ********* low pressure arrives but it ain't over until the fat lady sings and I still have 48 hours to try and get a half decent surf in.
Roll on September, I'm off somewhere with surf - I don't care where!
I've mustered two really poor surfs at the end of July, one in choppy onshore 1-2ft, the other in windless seas but on a large tide and small swell so I spent an hour dodging rocks and just about managing to stand up on the weak pulses.
Despite the dire waves, I actually surfed quite well, popping up quickly and finding the occasional bit of face but I know I'll struggle from surf fitness once we get proper waves again.
I've recently turned 40...
You can tell it's been flat as I'm now climbing the walls and getting very pissed off at missing the 1-2ft weak surf that keeps on mystically appearing around mid tide.
I was positively frothing this morning as I ran out of time for a pre work dip and may go later but it doesn't look good currently so may have to drown my sorrows at the surf club meeting tonight.
I'm off to a land locked country shortly for 10 days just as ********* low pressure arrives but it ain't over until the fat lady sings and I still have 48 hours to try and get a half decent surf in.
Roll on September, I'm off somewhere with surf - I don't care where!
Wednesday, 29 June 2011
Sunday's heat wave
The wave drought finally broke last week when we enjoyed a heat wave 'of sorts' with temps reaching a staggering 26 degrees in parts of Wales ;0
Not only did we have blue sky and sunshine but also a light cross offshore SE wind and solid ground swell, nudging 4ft on sets with a 10 sec wave period making all the difference.
Everywhere was heaving and Sker was no exception but I found a nice peak and tried to stay on it picking off decent rights whenever they came through.
I was on my OP 6'6 single fin which was a bit weird as I've not ridden it in more than a year as I've been surfing my 'ickle 5'10" Firewire Quad (being repaired)but I managed to hang onto a few and got some fairly long rides. It's a great board to paddle though and got me into a few peachy waves nice and early.
I did however find it very stiff and dug far too many rails, in my quest to hack into some lips. I guess I'll have to persevere with it a bit more as it's a beautiful board to ride once you find the sweet spot.
Had a quick chat with Eliot Dudley about boards, always nice to meet someone else with an interest and he showed him a sweet looking Pavel quad fish he'd picked up in the states. Elliot had just won the Welsh Nationals longboard at Llantwit on the saturday so well done him and hope he's enjoying life out west in Newgale.
Bumped into a few more WCSC associates out back who all seemed to be enjoying the swell and although a bit more crowded than normal, everyone was spread out and well behaved.
I did however get assassinated by an old boy on a long longboard who not only dropped in on me badly, but then proceeded to kick out badly, sending his board straight towards my head causing an emergency bail and wasted wave. It was a beauty too :(
Next few days were small and clean but we're locked into high pressure now so flatness will ensue for the rest of the week and weekend but at least most of us scored on Sunday - it's amazing how just one decent swell can cheer us all up after months of flatness & onshore slop.
And finally...Sven (a surf buddy of mine) and Mads are now the proud parents of a baby boy named 'Raphael Beau Attridge' who weighed in at 9lbs and flew out in about 4hrs so well done guys! x
Not only did we have blue sky and sunshine but also a light cross offshore SE wind and solid ground swell, nudging 4ft on sets with a 10 sec wave period making all the difference.
Everywhere was heaving and Sker was no exception but I found a nice peak and tried to stay on it picking off decent rights whenever they came through.
I was on my OP 6'6 single fin which was a bit weird as I've not ridden it in more than a year as I've been surfing my 'ickle 5'10" Firewire Quad (being repaired)but I managed to hang onto a few and got some fairly long rides. It's a great board to paddle though and got me into a few peachy waves nice and early.
I did however find it very stiff and dug far too many rails, in my quest to hack into some lips. I guess I'll have to persevere with it a bit more as it's a beautiful board to ride once you find the sweet spot.
Had a quick chat with Eliot Dudley about boards, always nice to meet someone else with an interest and he showed him a sweet looking Pavel quad fish he'd picked up in the states. Elliot had just won the Welsh Nationals longboard at Llantwit on the saturday so well done him and hope he's enjoying life out west in Newgale.
Bumped into a few more WCSC associates out back who all seemed to be enjoying the swell and although a bit more crowded than normal, everyone was spread out and well behaved.
I did however get assassinated by an old boy on a long longboard who not only dropped in on me badly, but then proceeded to kick out badly, sending his board straight towards my head causing an emergency bail and wasted wave. It was a beauty too :(
Next few days were small and clean but we're locked into high pressure now so flatness will ensue for the rest of the week and weekend but at least most of us scored on Sunday - it's amazing how just one decent swell can cheer us all up after months of flatness & onshore slop.
And finally...Sven (a surf buddy of mine) and Mads are now the proud parents of a baby boy named 'Raphael Beau Attridge' who weighed in at 9lbs and flew out in about 4hrs so well done guys! x
Potential surf dog
Colleague in work sent me this link of his pooch having a go in Cornwall and I have to say - she puts a lot of the kooks in Rest Bay to shame.
Straight into the sea, paddling out back, to the lineup and waits for a set before paddling for a couple. Well done Ella the surf dog. Imagine what she could do on a board?!
Straight into the sea, paddling out back, to the lineup and waits for a set before paddling for a couple. Well done Ella the surf dog. Imagine what she could do on a board?!
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