Well it was a simple plan...attempt our first extreme dawnie of 2009.
We're not talking a normal run of the mill 6am start here...we're talking 'EXTREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEME'!
The klaxon sounded at 4.40am and I stumbled out of bed, clonking into things in the darkness and out of the door, forgetting my lunch as I went...BUGGER
Then some clever motorway driving whilst pouring hot tea into my cup from a thermos flask, whilst trying to operate the wipers and gears - not easy at 80mph but well worth it.
Arrived at the chosen destination to meet up with Bic and Doc(again!) and stood around soaking up the early morning darkness. Our wives would worry if they knew we left them to meet up with other men... in car parks... at night ;)
By 5.45am it was light enough to get in and we made water fall just before 6am.
A bit disappointing to begin with as I'd envisaged 4-5ft and clean but we were greeted with a slightly choppy 3ft. Undeterred we paddled out.
In my excitement, I decided to run down the pebble bank at speed, throw my board onto the flat and surf it for a few feet. It went well until I jumped off, landing awkwardly on a big submerged rock...It hurt but cold water numbs pain very nicely.
We caught tons of waves first thing. I felt like I was catching something every couple of minutes but the light was unkind for the photographer today.
Aggers made his arrival around 6.30am followed by H-man and a couple of loggers, JT and Steve Beach. Good to meet you steve.
The shore dump began to roar around 7.15am
I was unceremoniously driven up the dry pebble bank on my back after one particular wipeout! LOL much to the amusement of my compadres!
For some reason I decided to go back in? By now, the waves were basically breaking in mutant shore-dump ending in dry pebbles up a steep bank...
I knew what was to come so instructed Bic on camera to move closer and wait. Almost on cue Aggers came in and got absolutely mullered, board flying up, body dragged over pebbles and out.
Aggers about to get sucked over:
Next up was Doc on 'big red'
I'd already remarked that I was glad I wasn't going in to the shorey with a 9ft longboard in hand. I had a feeling this would be good and he didn't disappoint.
He began his exit okay, so far so good, a slight lull, a run, but the conveyor belt rapidly kicked in as the wave sucked back out to sea.
Doc was pumping but the legs weren't moving. Uh oh...
He almost looked stationary as the silent assassin crept up on him and swept his legs clean away, despite him being halfway up the bank! So close...
What happened next can only be described as an 'explosion' as Doc was completely engulfed and rolled around the pebbles in a big white tumble dryer.
My foot is now absolutely killing me. I can hardly walk on it. A lesser man would be in hospital right now but I shall persevere and sob quietly to myself :)
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