Tides - 9.5m+
Swell - 1.7m
Wave Period 8 seconds, average 4.9 seconds
Clocks change tonight..'spring forwards' so we'll soon be enjoying lighter mornings and more water time. Yipeeeeeeeee
Jumped out of bed pre alarm for a change at 6.30am and checked the wave buoy data and decided to have a wander.
I'd texted Sven the night before to say 'leave a bit later due to the tides' but a phone call later and he informed me he'd not checked his phone and was en route from Swansea. Oh well!
We visited a spot I've checked many times before but never actually surfed...perhaps today could be the day? It generally needsa decent swell to get it going and works best through high on a couple of reef breaks to the north of the carpark.
Lovely blue skies and sunshine greeted me as well as a brisk NW wind but the coastline was sheltered here and the sea was being feathered by a moderate offshore wind with perfectly formed 2ft+ barrels reeling off onto a high tide pebble bank. The washed up logs and driftwood and scenery reminded me of somewhere lke Novia Scotia!
The tides were huge today, 10m + and so my compadre Sven Miguel aka 'Goldilocks' and I decided to do some exploring and try to find a few spots I'd had my eye on since the introduction of google maps to the world.
Unfortunately for Sven who arrived wearing flip flops...the woodland trails were thick with mud and wet mud at that, so I had a good time filming him whilst trying to push him off balance in the hope he'd provide some entertaining 'you tube' footage ;0
Sadly for me, he had his 'mountain goat' legs on today and stayed upright for the whole time - quite a feat considering he can normally trip up, 'at will' on relatively smooth pavements, wearing sturdy footwear.
After a 10 min hike we found some lovely views, some old ruins and one or two spots with potential...
The wind however was swinging round and increasing in strength and the tide was still too high :(
We opted for Dunraven Bay in the end and scored 2ft+ and clean to ourselves. I say scored...it was pretty weak and gutless but had a nice shape and was offshore and at least the sun was out. The far left and right hand reefs were breaking but getting anything out of them was hard work.
Still, a dip's a dip!
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