Tuesday 28 April 2009

Nearly...but not quite?

Things which always seem to happen when surfing. The sods law of surfing if you like. Here are some of my recent observations:

1. I hang my suit out to dry. It's almost there but not quite so I leave it outside for another 20 mins and then it pours down with rain. Why not bring it in.

Is this down to me just being an optimist or just being a bit forgetful i.e. We live in Wales and the weather changes faster than a tiger chasing a man with steak, taped to his undercrackers?

2. I paddle out and am nearly out the back when a large wave appears out of nowhere...

By rights I deserve to get over this beastie but no matter how hard I paddle or the direction I choose to paddle in, it seems to follow me? It's lining me up and there's nothing I can do about it!

It then just sits there, seemingly in s l o w - m o t i o n , patiently waiting and even offering a slight moment of hope (I might just make this) before breaking square on my back with all the subtlety of a car crash.

To make things more annoying this normally happens, just about the time my arms begin to scream for a breather.

3. I paddle out and despite perfect waves breaking either side of me, they will not ever come straight to me, no matter how long I sit there. Even the rip will not do the decent thing and carry me along to a surfable peak?
Instead I have to battle the rip for hours to snag anything worthwhile and am right back where I started after one decent wave, no matter which way I surf.

4. After a dire surf, a 'redeemer wave' presents itself on a plate to me and I slip off sideways 'mid paddle' due to a lack of wax even though this hasn't been an issue for the last 10 crap waves I've managed to catch successfully or unsuccessfully depending on how you want to view it.

Perhaps it's Karma?

That's it for now but I'm sure I'll think of some more, next time I'm out surfing.

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