They call me Gull and I've been known to squawk a bit. I threw away my thrusters in 1999. I now spend my days riding boards of all shapes and sizes - from single fins to quads to bonzer fives in Wales where I'm fortunate enough to have an abundance of quality beach breaks and reefs on my doorstep. I'll be documenting my exploits as often as I can. There will also be plenty of other aquatic action, surf related updates and photography featured. Feel free to comment.
Friday, 3 April 2009
Phileas Fogg
Swell: 3.9ft
Wind: SE 7 kts veering SSW
Period: 7-8 secs
Tide: Low at 6.33am, 2.8m
Sea Temp: 8.5c
5.45am start...the two man VW bus convoy headed out of Cardiff to a Gower reef break. Conditions were pretty perfect and expectations were high after yesterday poor surf.
As Rattz and I wandered down the fields past the stinky sewage farm, to the break a lovely 4ft+ set came through, ruler edged lines following the length of the reef and light offshore. At that point we though we were in for a special morning.
As we paddled out I spied one lone surfer also paddling out. I caught my first wave which turned out to be my best, a nice fast 3-4ft walling right, made the hollow section and flew at warp speed onto the face to blast 2 nice off the tops, cutback hard inside and kicked out to find myself in knee deep water on dry reef.
Paddled out thinking...it's not often you get a wave that good as your first one of the session! Sadly there weren't any more.
I got chatting to the other surfer who turned out to be the one and only 'crofty cowboy' from the OTL surfing message board. Good to put a face to the name at last :)
And then it came...the FOG
The blue skies turned to grey. The sun disappeared and a thick blanket of fog rolled in from the ocean.
By now we couldn't see anything, waves were appearing quite randomly around us and we struggled to find a good peak or even the peak we started off on.
There were no landmarks on the shore to line up with so we were flying blind.
Ratter picked off a few including a nice rolly polly straight off the end of his board and 'crofty' caught the odd one further in but it was a pretty average session considering the conditions on paper.
I graded the session: a 1 out of 5 and it only scored a 1 due to the fog being something out of the ordinary!
After a frustrating couple of hours we called it a day and paddled in where I proceeded to get sucked over onto the dry reef inside.
What a day.
Things must pick up soon. That's two crap surfs in a row now...
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Nice blog. And nice to know more about surfing in Wales.
ReplyDeleteCheers!
NiegĂ