Period: 16-17 seconds
Wind: Very light SW
Tide: Small tides. On the push with HT at 10.15am
I booked yesterday off well in advance of the impending swell (last week in fact) but as those of you following this blog will know, I fell out of my van on Monday morning after a swift pre-work surf whilst trying to get changed in a hurry... :(
My left foot was buried snugly in an old Ugg boot with zero support and I went right over on my ankle, squealing as I went down. I wouldn't have minded but had a crap surf too, so it was a double whammy.
The end result was that I've hobbling about this week and couldn't surf on it yesterday. Instead, I got up early and decided to take some photos and while it was painful to watch (literally) - I mind surfed plenty and took a few pics of the local crew charging, so not all bad.
A photo of a photo:
I found it quite relaxing actually, sat on a rock in the drizzle watching the tide getting closer and closer before eventually getting wet feet as a set wave swamped my slippery perch.
Technology is a weird & wonderful thing though. I stood for a while on the grass overlooking the break chatting to an old local legend by the name of 'Sinbad' who was also taking a few snaps.
I don't think he quite bought into the whole technological age thing but when I pointed out that my 18 month yr old son can use my i-phone I think he got what I was trying to say. The next generation is coming...
Staying on technology - whilst taking some shots, my phone buzzed in my pocket (yes I had a signal!). It was a mate in Porthcawl on the line telling me who good the surf was. He could "hear it outside his front door".
To which I replied: "Yes, I know, I'm sat down here right now taking photos of it!" just as I missed a perfect set rolling through...
Despite the rain and fog, the wind held off and we were greeted with clean, (at times glassy) 3-4ft+ surf with the odd bigger set pushing through.
Rhino in the barrel:
Rhino was all over it as usual and gave 100% to every wave, snagging a few nice barrels for his troubles and making out of almost everyone, bashing his way out of whatever exit was available.
Blods was out there too not really getting into it and texted me to "delete all shots" ;) but nevertheless I managed to snag him on a couple of half decent waves:
Greg and Ezra turned up as I was leaving and I managed to get one of Greg landing a nice floater so will upload that one later.
He enjoyed it so much he surfed Aberavon in the afternoon and has prob pulled/torn a stomach muscle for his troubles as I bumped into him in the doctors surgery last night.
Wave etiquette on the point seemed to be good yesterday. I only saw one drop in! so it was nice to see waves being ridden rather than wasted and one guy out there on fish was getting some really long rides by sitting a little bit wider than the inside pack.
Rhino reo:
You cee more pics from this session on my Facebook page.
Everywhere fired yesterday. Aran and Rattz hit a local river mouth but weren't overly impressed to begin with but apparently it improved on the push delivering shoulder high waves but it was slightly more wind affected than other spots.
Meanwhile Doc and Werg scored a Gower reef at 5ft and clean and reported classic conditions - the best doc's had it since the last best he had it session of 2010 ;)
The Tsunami Cup and Elusive are on this weekend so I'm hoping to get a surf in then. Next week is looking EPIC so I might just get some at the point myself with any luck!
Other news - Gower and Welsh surfing legend PJ suffered head injuries after surfing on Gower on Wednesday. He's already had brain surgery and is doing well apparently, so hopefully he'll make a full recovery and be back ripping up Llangennith soon.
Have a nice weekend and I might see some of you down Rest Bay. Present plans are for the Tsunami Cup to run on Sunday, with the Elusive taking place on Saturday.
To enter please email info@tomandersonbooks.com with your name, age and category. It'll be £5 per category, with limited numbers.
It will still be possible to do a beach entry for the Tsunami contest IF places still exist - although only on Saturday as the draw will be done that evening.
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