Too much water

Swell: 1.5m
Period: 12 seconds
Winds: Light SE wind
Water Temp: 6.6 deg C

Lovely conditions out there today. I managed to persuade my better half to take Fin to nursery today providing I got him fed, watered, clothed first - so I managed to get out the door just after 7am.

My first battle was with the elements as my van was completely frosted over with that annoying ice that's too thin to scrape off properly but set solid, so I gingerly drove off peering through a small gap in the windscreen towards the coast...

I arrived at Rest Bay to find a lumpy 4ft+ wave coming in with the occasional bigger one. I decided to check a few other spots first but ended up coming back and paddled out towards Golf over a rocky shelf.

The entry was fine but the paddle out was tough after 2 weeks of not surfing!

I actually thought for probably the first time in my life that I was going to have to turn back, defeated - but I didn't really want to do that as there were some bloody big rocks waiting to greet me inside...so I put my head down and ignored my burning jelly arms.

Eventually Huey gave me a break and offered me a brief respite, so I made it out back, pride intact. It was a beautiful day with warm sunlight bouncing off the Rest Bay Convalescent home (where Blods lives) and no other surfer near me, just gulls for company :)

I looked down to find my front zip was undone... I'd forgotten to do it up and in all the excitement, not really felt too cold either ;)

I guess that's why the Xcel Infiniti Drylock has just won best wetsuit of the year again for the 3rd year running!

The rights were coming through at a good size and perfectly formed but the tide was big and pushing hard so I was always keeping one eye on my exit down towards the boat ramp. I let the rip take me down and bumped into Sponger Harv who had stood me up - what a bitch!

Pic by porthcawlsurf.co.uk


We shared a few fun rights, working our way in to the rocks and backwash before kicking out. I caught a few but nothing special then it was time to head in.

This proved quick tricky today as the bay was full with a strong rip and waves breaking all the way. I eventually found my feet and pegged it up the boat ramp back to the van.

After a quick change I jumped out the side door in my old Uggs, causing my ankle to completely roll over onto one side. I yelped loudly, like a dog having his tail run over and hobbled around to the drivers seat knowing I might have done some damage...

So all in all, a big effort for very little reward today and a sore ankle to boot.

I hope I can surf on it tomorrow as I'm down for the Tsunami Cup on Saturday and on my current form and fitness it will be hysterically funny to watch (if I get out back!)

Ratter scored X at around 4-5 feet but nothing too special to report, meanwhile Aran & Co had 3-4ft @ Ogmore but he was suffering from 'post surf trip blues' so didn't have a good surf either, complaining about the cold water making him feel sick!

*The council have locked the top car park @ Rest Bay, so park where you can!
I also noticed that they're putting in a new board walk connecting the beach up with the main town at last so that's good news!


Gull