Another great start to the day

Swell: 3ft
Period: 7-8 seconds
Winds: Light ESE
Tides: Mid tide on the push. HT @ 11.11am

It's at times like these that I can almost imagine I'm living back in Australia - sunshine and surfing before work.

But the surf rolls on...I've pretty much got my morning routine with Jnr sussed now. I drop him off at nursery @ 7.30am which gives me a good hour of surfing before I, like 90% of the other surfers in the water have to don the work attire and hit the M4...slowing for that mysterious accident that always occurs between J33-34?

The winds were light SE and offshore and there was a fast, clean wave running at around 3ft on the better sets. The board and I connected today and I finally found a few sweet spots, hitting some lips and laying down a few high speed cutbacks.

I even survived a double drop in from two chubby longboarders, one of whom proceeded to try and decapitate me with his flying board. Luckily I learnt to duck as a young child.

I have therefore decided that longboarding IS a crime! and will be buying the t-shirt ASAP ;)

A good vibe and crew out there today though and plenty of smiles all round. I missed Big Wednesday last night but was shattered after surfing in the morning and every other day this week.

Rumours are circulating of overhead and clean at some spots, and 100m+ hollow rides at others - there will be other days!

If I keep telling myself that - it makes the pain bearable...just.

Claire Beach was out snapping yesterday and despite my surfing being poor, still caught me on a couple:





Photographers eh? Never around when you're ripping it up like Kelly Slater are they? ;)

More waves on the way so I'd better get some ice packs on the old shoulders!

Gull