Wave period: 10 seconds
Winds: Light NW
Tide: 8m, LT at 6.30am
I spied a potential pulse on Friday night so arranged to meet up with Doc for a Saturday morning dawn patrol on the Gower reefs.
The alarm went off at 5am and checking my mobile, saw that I already had 3 messages from Doc telling me to get up! LOL
Lovely start to the day I think - hard to say as Porthcawl and the M4 were shrouded in fog but for once - the steelworks @ Port Talbot looked beautiful.
The 'cooling lake' was shrouded in mist as I drove past and I half expected the lady of the lake to rise up holding a shopping trolley aloft.
I knew it would be good as I turned off for Swansea. I guess every surfer checks this part of the estuary, as you get an enticing glimpse of the surf just as you turn off and head down the hill at J42?
There in front of the river mouth were clean, glassy lines! It's normally just onshore white water. Needless to say I ignored the speed limit, hit green lights all the way through and was at Doc's place in record time.
We loaded up complete with surf dog - Roger who snuggled up and kept my lap warm for the ride down to the reefs.
After a quick change it became apparent that we were not alone - 7 cars already parked up but the big question was where was everyone?
As we walked along the cliff tops, we watched nice lines rolling in down at Sumpter's and got more excited at what lay ahead...
Pete's had 6 surfers already on it and was only really working on the inside but we could see occasional head dips and cover ups.
All around us, perfect lines were rolling in but the ocean didn't seem to be delivering when the waves eventually broke. Had we got the tide wrong? Or was this just the start of the swell pushing in?
Gower in winter time:
After much deliberating - mainly on my part we paddled out at a reef doc assured me would be good. I was less than convinced as it looked small and slow from up the top but I eventually decided to trust his judgement and was glad I had - it was the right call!
After a few wrong turns ending in steep rocks, I made it to the waters edge. Doc had gone walkabout as Roger the dog had gone AWOL chasing rabbits again but eventually joined me.
Paddling over the shallow inside section I was greeted with sparkling 3ft+ barrels reeling along the reef towards me. I was aware that I was now grinning like a fool and could hear my heart pumping hard through my ear plugs. Nearly there...
A set came through and I was a little confused as to where to sit as there were now 3 separate peaks all within range and all looking lovely.
I kept paddling and lined myself up with a big indicator rock and waited.
A few waves came through and I realised doc hadn't been joking when he said I'd enjoy a nice fast take off and walling right. I let the first few go so I could get in position and see where the rocks were. Then I took my first wave.
The peak jacked up considerably and I dropped into a nice hollow, walling right.
My board was absolutely flying and I bashed 3x lips as I raced down into the inside section, wondering if I should have pulled into to the various barrels that were on offer?
Each section made and bashed provided another one up ahead to race. Should I kick out now...keep going...now...keep going...a little bit more, before eventually kicking out into knee deep water on the inside rocks. What a ride!
I'd been after something of that quality for about 3 months and had finally gotten my fix.
Doc joined me in the line-up and snagged his first on big red and away we went, sharing the peak and getting some nice rights.
A couple of lads including Dan from Progress Surf paddled over and joined us. Doc had the set waves wired and sat patiently further out on big red.
Dan was smiling and chatting and throwing plenty of spray around despite his dinged board and foot from an earlier incident with the reef.
Doc made some serious drops on his plank, easily 4ft, jacking up quickly and probably only fell off two or three in total.
He was definitely committed and I gave up trying to play the positional card on him ;) so the rest of us snagged the smaller waves which turned out to be holding up nicely.
As the tide raced in the wave began to throw out nicely a few cover ups were had but none made.
It was time to go so Doc, Dan and I paddled in...to find roger the dog had gone?
He must be chasing rabbits again...
Doc went off up the hill to find him and we parted company with Dan who offered to tie Roger up to the van if found.
Not a problem we thought - he's bound to turn up but 3 hrs later and there was still no sign of him. We walked high and low until our legs could carry us no further.
Doc's family joined in the search and Port Eynon and Worm's Head were covered. Ramblers and runners were canvassed but no sign of him anywhere?
I had to get back home but Doc continued the search and handed out flyers.
At present Roger is still missing so if anyone is reading this and has seen a small brown and white beagle/terrier cross on Gower wandering about with his lead attached - please leave your details or call the number on the collar.
You can find a pic and details here.
It would be good to reunite Roger with his family soon.
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