Tuesday 29 June 2010

The wind before the storm

Swell: 1.1m
Wind: A lightening W
Tide: HT @ 9am - 9 metres
Period: 7.9 seconds, underlying is poor though at 4.8 seconds

Not much to report so far today.

The wind got up last night towards the end of Brazil v Chile game so I was hoping for some fresh swell this morning but it's a little premature.

The wind was still blowing as I quietly opened the bedroom window at 5am to check the direction but was immediately blasted with a face full of westerly, so went back to bed.

Gull junior however had other ideas and has the ears of an owl! So I ended up playing toy cars with him instead. It's becoming increasingly difficult to sneak past his room, downstairs and out the front door for a surf these days...

I may have to invest in a rope ladder out of the bedroom window soon.

The wind is definitely easing now though and Rest is currently around 1-2ft and trying to clean up its act. There's a wave for grockles and mals but that's about all.

Talking of mals - I saw a lot at Llangennith on Sunday morning - a god awful wave and all the mal riders were old and fat.

Now what's that all about? Why don't older surfers try and stay in shape?

Anyway...moving on.

The barometer reading is still high - around 1015 so I'm not expecting any decent surf until Weds night/ Thursday morning at the earliest really, when the next proper low arrives on our hallowed shores.

Feast your tired, summer surfer eyes on this little beauty:


Finally a proper swell to sort out the wheat from the chaff and wash away all those wannabe summer surfers into the inside shore dump, where they belong :)

We should have 4-5 days of swell of this 980 before high pressure resumes again next week so make the most of it. I suspect there will be a lot of tired shoulders by Monday morning.

Gull

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